Sydney Eat Street: 10 places to try in Leichhardt
ONCE dubbed “Little Italy”, Leichhardt’s increasingly diverse community has seen it evolve in to a foodie haven embracing both the new and old.
Eat Street
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ONCE dubbed “Little Italy”, Leichhardt’s increasingly diverse community has seen it evolve in to a foodie haven embracing both the new and old.
Take a tour of the area’s best eateries right here with The Sunday Telegraph’s Eat Street. Are you hungry for more inspiration? Follow us on Instagram.
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CAPRICCIO OSTERIA
Behind the back wall of the bar, large glass jars of housemade Limoncello are flanked by colourful ceramic jugs on one side and two wooden barrels of wine on the other.
On their own they could be seen as practical design elements but add in the lemon logo, and you’ll begin to see how they all hint to owner Michele Rispoli’s childhood in Positano, Italy — specifically the large family lunches on Sundays when dishes of the region’s creamy cheeses and abundant seafood, paired with handmade pasta and copious amounts of lemons would flow from the kitchen throughout the afternoon.
It’s that element of familiarity that Michele set out to emulate and together with renowned chef Nicole Bampton, formerly of hatted restaurants Tetsuya and Sepia, is delivering a bit of the Amalfi Coast to diners in Leichhardt.
The food here is “designed to be shared”; essentially shunning the rigid entree and main schedule for one that naturally progresses from smaller to larger portions.
Nicole has masterfully designed a menu where each dish has its own personality with flavour combinations that complement rather than compete with the rest of the meal as no two ingredients are repeated.
To start, order the Stracciatella with roasted beetroot along with some housemade focaccia. Nicole explains how the creaminess of the buffalo cheese needs the drier bread to go with it.
“It’s a textural balance as well.”
Follow that with a further selection of antipasto and wood-fired dishes. The stunning beetroot and vodka-cured ocean trout with salmon roe is a must, and you’ll be tempted to keep it to yourself, that is until the squid ink spaghetti with blue swimmer crab, and the Maltagliai with QLD banana prawns arrive. Then, it’s game on.
— 159 Norton St
THE PEANUT BUTTER BAR
Peanut butter and cheese sandwiches may not seem like a go-to food for a high-flying executive but little did Christine Elbakht know the simple snack would lead her to a “peanut butter revolution” after she left that job to start something new.
The problem was she didn’t know what she wanted to do but after a period of pondering things with husband Nagib she came up with the idea that would combine their passions for dining out, desserts and fitness.
The answer came in the way of her favourite food — peanut butter. Yes, peanut butter can be quite decadent when added to sugary sweets, but on its own, it’s quite high in protein and low in the bad fats.
With some modifications, she knew she could develop “a new way of enjoying desserts by recreating the sweets that people love” and give parents like herself, some healthier options for their kids.
So, after a year of trial and error and working with a food scientist, she came up with her first product, a high protein, gluten-free peanut butter brownie made with natural sugars and, amazingly, sweet potatoes.
That one treat turned into the basis for a menu divvied up into three categories: high protein, vegan and, of course, a “Cheat Day”.
Additionally, you can top up your treats with an extra shot of nuttiness from their flowing peanut butter fountain, a perfect pair with the favourite natural sugars, high-protein gluten-free chocolate chip and red velvet cookie skillets.
Served warm, you can add a scoop of their (very tasty) vegan gelato then drown it in as much, or as little, melted peanut butter as you like. All the goodness minus the guilt.
— 161 Norton St
THE ROYAL LEICHHARDT
At the heart of every community, there’s always a local watering hole. It’s not necessarily a rule but probably should have been as going back to the 1800s the local hotel doubled as leisure and business with it often serving as a courtroom, pulpit and meeting room.
At The Royal Hotel, as it was known then, politicians had the added benefit of a balcony to address their constituents.
Fortunately, thanks to licensee Mark Chapman, that long demolished outdoor space has been resurrected into a spacious wraparound terrace where the only votes being sought after are for best inner-west craft beer and meeting rooms host sports club and community events.
Since taking over The Royal, Mark has overseen a complete revamp, starting with a refresh of the main bar on the ground floor followed by a total renovation of the upstairs areas, and also his former residence, into casual dining spaces, called The Royal Botanical.
The menu that serves the terrace, dining area and balcony has also seen the light.
“It used to just be pub food, now it’s good pub food,” Mark says.
“There are more contemporary options to appeal to Leichhardt’s diverse community.”
Now, in addition to the classic Chicken Parmi counter meal, there’s also steamed bao buns with karaage chicken, crispy fish tacos in blue corn tortillas, salmon poke bowls and eggplant moussaka.
With a fresh look, new menu and diverse drink selection, people will be coming to Leichhardt to make The Royal their local.
— 156 Norton St
PENNY FOURS
After working as a pastry chef and baker in a number of noted establishments around Sydney, Penelope Ransley decided to open her own shop with one mission in mind: To make the best croissants.
That was over four years ago, and now, she’s making between 800 and 900 a day, selling some out of her shop but mainly to high-end shops including Victor Churchhill in Woollahra.
That number is particularly impressive considering the whole process of making the dough, folding the butter in layers and rolling it takes three days.
While patience is a virtue here, so too are quality ingredients specifically the butter in that it’s the right kind that gives it, well, the buttery taste.
For that, Penelope sources hers from France and Belgium.
“They’ve been doing it for centuries so clearly, they know what they’re doing,” she says, noting that it’s actually a particular kind called “technical butter” that makes for the fluffiest croissants as since it has a higher boiling part than what you’d buy off the shelves it steams longer causing the dough to rise and making a spiral of layers on the inside.
It’s a detailed process but judging by demand, she just may have hit her mark.
— 141 Norton St
CELLA & CREEK
For those who may not know their wines, but know what they like, this spacious wine and cheese bar with handcrafted timber share tables, exposed brick walls and a Fromage refrigerator may be just what you’re after.
There’re no pretences as here even the most well-versed wine lover won’t recognise every winery — although every bottle is from Australia, many from Mudgee and Orange.
For co-owner Ben King, that’s mostly the point. Fascinated by the notion that every bottle of wine is unique, he buys one box at a time from independent vintners, specifically, those that embrace a “hands off” approach which he says, “lets the grape taste like what the land produced”.
And depending on what characteristics you like in a wine, not the type of wine you like, he’ll help you choose.
Ben is equally passionate about cheese and together with his chef has developed an impressive bar menu that compliments the wine.
It features an array of both local and international cheese, charcuterie selections and other plates, each with three unexpected elements such as porchetta, cranberries and pickled apples or the anchovies, toast and lemon. So when in doubt, ask Ben.
— 54 Norton St
MUST TRY
SPAGHETTI ALLO SCOGLIO
His interest in cooking started by peeling potatoes by his mother’s side as a young child. Little did that four-year-old boy know that someday he’d own one of the most popular restaurants in the area.
For the past 20 years, Ilario Ventolini has been serving up some of the best Italian food in Leichhardt, since proving to Sydney-siders back in the 90s that there is more to the cuisine that pasta with heavy tomato sauces.
For that, he introduced some lighter fare with Spaghetti Allo Scoglio — white wine, garlic, extra virgin olive oil and chilli with prawns, vongole and mussels.
— Moretti; 99 Norton St
SALUMI AUSTRALIA
Family-owned Harris Farm Markets has recently opened its largest store yet and in a nod to the area’s heritage, created an Italian mercato (market) experience.
There’ll be an on-site cheesemaking facility, using locally sourced milk as well as artisan bread from The Bread and Butter Project.
Salumi Australia, renowned for their use of local ingredients and traditional Italian curing and fermenting techniques in their quality pork smallgoods, are running the in-house deli, adjacent to which are tables where customers can learn and taste new products
— Harris Farm Markets; Level B1, Norton Plaza, 51-57 Norton St,
PIZZA NAPOLETANA
So unique is this pizza that it has its own accrediting body, and fortunately for Leichhardt, one of only four certified pizza Napoletana makers in Sydney is located on Norton Street.
To receive this Neapolitan honorary, there are some pretty strict standards to follow — size (28cm), raised crust, thin centre, pliable and only a wood-fired oven.
The actual flavour though comes from the requisite sweet San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella cheese made from Mediterranean buffalo milk, and herbs. Francesco Spataro has nailed it!
— Aperitivo; 163 Norton St
GELATO
When this casual Norton St institution opened its doors to Leichhardt’s thriving Italian community in 1952, it not only offered quick, tasty and affordable traditional dishes but also doubled as a central spot to chat over a cup of coveted espresso.
Fast forward 66 years and the only thing that has changed is the addition of a refrigerated case to hold their 24 flavours of housemade gelato and sorbet …, plus an out-the-door queue to try the famous tiramisu gelato.
— Bar Italia; 169-171 Norton St
NORTON STREET ITALIAN FESTA
While the event had initially been organised to replicate the religious festivals of Italy for the local community, it has since grown as a way to celebrate Leichhardt as a whole.
Taking place between Marion St and William St, there’ll be plenty of entertainment, an Italian car show, hundreds of stalls, including the famous porchetta rolls from Bar Sport, gelato from Bar Italia, cannoli from Locantro and a number of cooking demonstrations including one from Luca Ciano, celebrity chef and author, who’ll be cooking fresh buffalo ricotta & prosciutto di parma fritters.
— Sunday, October 28, 10am-5pm