Sydney Eat Street: 10 places to try along Wulugul Walk in Barangaroo
The shores of Barangaroo have a long affinity with the celebration of food and it continues today with the 13 harbourside eateries along the Wulugul Walk.
The shores of Barangaroo have a long affinity with the celebration of food and it continues today with the 13 harbourside eateries along the Wulugul Walk.
Take a tour of the area’s best eateries right here with The Sunday Telegraph’s Eat Street. Are you hungry for more inspiration? Follow us on Instagram.
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LOTUS
Lotus not just by name, the Barangaroo restaurant embodies its flower namesake, symbolising elegance and purity of heart and mind.
Head chef Kenji Okuda says his goal is to “showcase what we are” — not just the food but also the people at Lotus, adding there are “so many brains in the kitchen”.
Embracing that creativity, Kenji often brings in a new or seasonal ingredient and kitchen staff brainstorm what can be done with it.
Those who take it on then prepare the dish, and they all taste and critique it. He says that no one is offended, (even he is open to critique) and if the dish passes their test, it is featured as a special the following week and sometimes, such as with the crystallised kale and emoki mushrooms entree, becomes a regular on the menu.
While Kenji feels that this helps his team build confidence in the kitchen, it also serves as a way for him to emphasise the culinary ethos he inherited from a chef in London: simplicity.
Referring to such signature items as the squid ink, blue swimmer crab and scallop dumplings; silken tofu salad with heirloom tomatoes; and even the spicy lamb cutlets with cucumber and mint Kenji explains:
“Knowing when to stop is key. Knowing when to say ‘that’s enough’. No need to add anything else.”
Throughout the menu, you’ll notice how each dish highlights one ingredient with only a couple other complementing elements. Perfectly beautiful.
— 8/23 Barangaroo Ave, Wulugul Walk
ANASON
There’s no such thing as fast food at Anason. The Turkish restaurant is as much about the food as it is the lingering experience.
Manager Burak Cebi is beyond keen to share the stories and history of Turkey — as long as it’s from a food and drink perspective.
With contagious energy, he educates diners about Turkish food, reminding them that it’s more than just kebabs and pita with hummus, as the Western side of Turkey, and Anason itself embraces more olive oil and seafood.
The venue takes its inspiration from a Meyhane, which is sort of a cross between your local pub, cafe and a friend’s place. You go here with the intent of spending a long time.
At the centre of these marathon sessions is an aniseed spirit called Raki. Burak explains how it is served in a small glass in its own petite “ice bucket” and is known to make people very emotional and talkative.
“Any issue, Raki will bring it out,” Burak says, announcing the three rules for drinking it. One, drink it slowly. It’s not a shot. Two, always with food and three, never alone as it makes you honest and emotional. Things that you’d want only family and friends to hear. Raki is part of the “Holy Trio” (Raki Meze) 1) Raki 2) rockmelon and 3) feta.
Because the strong spirit can burn your throat, the rockmelon soothes it then the feta changes the palette.
“You must complete the cycle,” Burak says.
Anason’s modern take on the Holy Trio is Chilingir (translates to “locksmith” because Raki opens all the doors) feta, macadamia and walnut balls topped with rockmelon shaving.
Start there then order the grilled eggplant with burnt yoghurt and pomegranate; octopus with fava beans followed by the lamb fillet with charred leek. Add one of their select Turkish wines, and you’re in for a great evening. Honest.
— 5/23 Barangaroo Ave, Wulugul Walk
MUUM MAAM
Spicy! That’s the signature dish at Muum Maam. Jungle Curry is representative of Northern Thai cuisine so won’t find any coconut milk it, but you will find it chilli-laden.
“There’s lots going on,” head chef and co-owner Santo Bun says.
This bowl of flavour features barramundi, Thai eggplant, green beans, basil and wild ginger.
Muum Maam, Santo explains, politely translates to “little glutton but more accurately sloppy eating” or “the way you eat when you’re really hungry”.
For Santo, that affinity to spice and Thai food came about when he began working at Long-grain as a dishie more than 10 years ago.
He eventually moved up to head chef before opening up Muum Maam at Barangaroo along with the owners of its sister venue in Surry Hills.
This eatery is very popular at lunch as it’s ideal for the area’s time-poor office crowd, and by night it’s a casual dining venue with its consistent use of fresh and original ingredients.
The kitchen makes all of its pastes in-house, which, in addition to being labour intensive, can often be difficult when sourcing the recipe’s 10-plus ingredients including Kaffir limes (use the zest of the limes in their curry paste) and Thai basil.
Santo notes despite that, they’ll never compromise on quality, which includes both the ingredients and those working in the kitchen.
“It’s important to have respect for your staff,” Santo says.
“It’s hard work. I know, I’ve been through it.”
— 6/23 Barangaroo Ave
BEA
“I mean who wouldn’t love a crispy, roast duck?” declares Cory Campbell, head chef at Bea. And he’s right.
“Our signature whole roast duck from the Southern Highlands has been on our menu since we opened. It’s my take on a traditional Peking duck, which obviously originated from China, but with my twist on it with local native ingredients.”
It’s his respect for the produce around him and experiences garnered from worldly adventures that have helped take Bea to soaring heights.
“We work with some amazing producers and the quality is second to none for an accessible price tag,” Corey says.
“Our team is also amazing. I wouldn’t be where I am without them and the guests really create relationships with them — our people make Barangaroo House what it is.”
Cory says he has taken inspiration for the menu from his childhood, adding: “I’ve always had a love for food. My family played a huge role in this and I have a lot of memories of being in the kitchen, especially with my Nan and Pop, making pasta from scratch.
“I think my passion was really sparked by travel, wanting to immerse myself in different cultures. And, we both know the best way to experience that is through your stomach.”
— 35 Barangaroo Ave
LOVE.FISH
Love fish? Then you should check out love.fish.
Michelle Grand-Milkovic along with her husband and experienced chef, Michael Milkovic, started off eight years ago in Rozelle with the intent of creating a “fish bar with a green heart” that would provide locals with market-fresh, sustainable seafood.
Six years later, they’ve taken their small shop and loyal following to a grander stage looking out onto Sydney Harbour.
With dishes such as the delicious grilled line-caught Spanish mackerel, sea urchin taramasalata and Mooloolaba scallops with mint pea risotto, it’s easy to understand how love.fish has lured Sydney foodies down to Wulugul Walk.
It’s also interesting to note how patrons become engaged with Michael and Michelle’s genuine commitment to sustainable practices.
Not only are they adamant about using seafood that comes from Australia or New Zealand (its origins noted on the menu), everything else from the bar to the coffee and even the packaging is sourced locally.
This though doesn’t mean they compromise on taste.
“We love to experiment with flavours as long as the dish is anchored with local seafood and kept lovingly simple, it has the potential to become a love.fish dish,” Michelle says.
While you’re sure to recognise many of the seafood variants on the menu, be sure to check out the daily specials in which head chef James Wallis has concocted dishes with some of the lesser-known species that flourish more in specific seasons.
“Our regulars know that the daily specials will always push them to try something new,” Michelle says.
Another reason to keep coming back.
— 7/23 Barangaroo Ave
MUST TRY
CIRRUS PLATTER
Fancy dinners are fine but sharing a seafood platter over a long lunch on Sunday down by the water is what Sydney is all about.
But add to that two tiers of seafood including Moreton Bay bugs with fennel, scallop ceviche, crumbed Kingawook mussels and blue swimmer crab prepared by award-winning chef, Brent Savage, at his hatted-restaurant and that is what makes Barangaroo’s dining precinct so special.
— Cirrus; 9/2323 Barangaroo Ave
MUSSELS IN WHITE VERMOUTH
With its lush cushions on wrought iron lounges, greenery cascading from the awning and vases of gum leaves scattered about, it’s clear why head chef and co-owner Hamish Ingham refers to it as an “Oasis in a concrete jungle”.
Everything here has a connection to botanical elements — from its name, a nod to Australia’s first botanist, Sir Joseph Banks, to the 30-plus flora and fauna ingredients used to make their bespoke vermouth.
The big draw though is Hamish’s mussels cooked in white vermouth, with green olives and herb butter.
Of course, delightful vermouth over ice makes the meal complete.
— Banksii; 11/33 Barangaroo Ave
DOUBLE UME BURGER
It’s a tough call as to what is the bigger draw at this Japanese burger bar. The oh-so-quirky soft-serve cones and cups with flavours such as pumpkin or strawberry and shiso are a big contender.
So too is the whiskey selection, house-made sodas and wine. Then there are the Renkon chips, (Lotus root slices) in seaweed salt or any one of their four signature burgers — pork katsu, prawn katsu, vegetable fritter or beef.
Best suggestion is to start off with the iconic Double Ume Burger with wagyu mince sauce, truss tomato, onion, mayo and American cheese topped off with bacon.
Try their own strawberry vanilla soda as well. After that, it’s either nap time or a walk around the harbour and back for dessert.
— UME Burger; 6/33 Barangaroo Ave
THE BALLER BUCKET
Whether you like your wings in the “OMG, that’s hot” range or maybe just the tiniest zing, the option is yours at this Nashville-style chicken shop.
Unlike the barbecued meats that are slathered in sauce, these get a “dry rub” of seasoning before being smoked.
Try some drumsticks and a side of mac and cheese or opt for a sandwich with Old Bay Fries.
For those looking to feed the lot, there’s the Baller Bucket which includes 16 wings, four sides and sauces.
— Belles Hot Chicken; 5/33 Barangaroo Ave
SUSHI AND SASHIMI
For those in a hurry, stop in for a quick lunch with bento boxes and the likes but come dinner, take your time and truly enjoy the delicate and fresh fare at this chic Japanese eatery.
There is a lovely selection of sashimi and nigiri, but it’s some of the house specials that are worth the return trip.
Try the sashimi tacos with salmon, tuna, avo, and wonton crackers or the signature Spider Roll with soft-shelled crab, cucumber, avocado, wasabi mayo and shiso cress.
It’s hard though to go past a large platter of the chef’s selection.
— Zushi; 10/33 Barangaroo Ave
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