Sydney Eat Street: Walsh Bay wows again with great food and stunning views
Loaded with heritage-listed wharf sheds and great views of Sydney, Walsh Bay also has some hidden foodie gems to suit every palate.
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Peek behind the brick walls of the heritage-listed wharf sheds and take a stroll down the timber-piled boardwalks, both of which are brimming with restaurants suited to every palate in Walsh Bay.
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Jounieh
The restaurant’s crisp white linen, blonde woods, and aqua accents easily conjure images of a tranquil sea.
For some, that may be as close as a secluded Sydney beach; for others, it may be on the other side of the globe, but for the co-owner Sanjeev Kapoor, it brings back memories of Jounieh, a coastal town in Lebanon.
But the stellar views that make Walsh Bay promenade such a dining destination aren’t the only reason to eat at Jounieh.
“Yes, it’s a beautiful view, but it’s really the essence of the food and the local produce,” Sanjeev says.
“The dishes are contemporary but still Lebanese with a bit of French influence.”
While he notes that there are many similarities between Mediterranean food, it’s the various regions’ spices that are telling.
“Lebanese dishes tend to have cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and a bit of cumin. Those are the spicy notes, so alongside that is fresh mint,” Sanjeev explains.
Regarding ordering, their seafood set menu ($105pp) is an ideal way to capture Jounieh’s essence; particularly their signature 11-hour slow-cooked lamb shoulder with red currants, roasted tomatoes, rosemary jus, and garlic yoghurt.
“Everything is designed to share. And just like at home, when you put a lamb roast on the table, you a family is being fed. It’s shared among everyone.”
But since a roast will only go so far, the menu includes chicken skewers, grilled king prawns, salt & pepper calamari, roasted chat potatoes, and an abundance of dips and house-made bread. And, of course, there is the view.
— Promenade Foreshore, 17 Hickson Rd; jounieh.com.au
Ventuno
The jig is up. Locals have long held the location of this chic waterfront restaurant close to their chests.
With friendly staff serving house-made Italian-centric dishes and a view that looks over private berths across the water to Lavender Bay, it’s no wonder they’ve been reluctant to spill the beans.
Yet, with the reopening of the arts and entertainment venues and expansion of the Barangaroo Reserve walk, people are discovering that behind the facades of the heritage-listed buildings is a slew of restaurants and cafes along the timber-piled promenade.
What began as a family-owned and operated family business in 2007 has changed little since then, even after Sydney Restaurant Group (Aqua, Ormeggio at The Spit, Ripples) acquired it earlier this year.
So, with barely any down time, the interior was given a quick refresh, and head chef Adam Spencer gave the menu a bit of polish by adding entrees of antipasto and duck liver and foie gras parfait, classic meat and vegetarian pizzas, and mains that range from Berkshire porchetta to seafood spaghetti, all of which to ensure that Ventuno continues to be a fabulous place for lunch, dinner, and drinks.
— 7/21 Hickson Rd; ventuno.com.au
Zupano
As a melting pot of cultures and cuisines, pretty much anything besides counter meals gets lumped together under the label of Modern Australian.
While that term could technically correct for the Mediterranean-influenced dishes and desserts at Zupano, it didn’t quite tell owners Theo and Antonia Laliotis’ story, so they made up their own term: Aussie-terranean.
That’s not the only word they’ve concocted; they’ve also given a name to their signature dessert: Baklavakatoboureko.
Made with a secret recipe handed down through the family, this creamy cake is a delicious pairing of baklava’s best bits, the chopped nuts and honey base, and Galaktoboureko, a filo-pastry topped custard pie with mild citrus syrup.
While many people see Modern Australian fare as an adaptation of traditional dishes for western palettes, Antonia prefers to see it as a way of taking the best parts of both worlds.
At their cosy cafe along the promenade, that means using premium local produce, or what Antonia calls “the best produce in the world”, and heirloom recipes such as her meatballs, another signature item that sells out by day’s end.
Can’t decide? Just go for the Mount Olympus Platter; it’s as lavish as its name and perfect for an afternoon of grazing on Zupano’s Aussie-terranean fare while gazing at life along the pier.
— Shop 9, Pier 8/9, Foreshore Promenade, 23 Hickson Rd; zupano.com.au
The Theatre Bar at the End of the Wharf
At the same time that it takes to say the full name of this restaurant and bar, you could have easily saved yourself a syllable and just called it “That Harbourfront Bar with the Awesome View” (because saying an “awesome view of the Harbour Bridge and Luna Park” is just too wordy, and we’d be back where we started).
While it is indeed attached to Sydney Theatre Company’s more intimate theatre spaces, and it is indeed about a 100m walk to the back of the heritage-listed structure, those are just the formalities.
What you really need to know is that the expansive sun-drenched space with decks on either side features a seasonal menu suited to a casual lunch with the likes of salads, frittatas, falafels; refined dinner options such as Rangers Valley flat iron steak, roast blue eye cod, and Borrowdale free-range pork collar; or just linger over share-plates and wine.
The view is essentially a show all to itself.
— Sydney Theatre Company, Wharf 4/5, 15 Hickson Rd; thetheatrebarattheendofthewharf.com.au
Mr Jones at Sydney Dance Company
Right place, right time, right attitude. When hospitality veterans Rachel and JP Calvaruso first opened their cafe inside an Ultimo office building, little did this husband/wife team know that it’d take them across the harbour to Walsh Bay.
Their second venue involved a bit of serendipity. When the staff of Sydney Dance Company temporarily moved into the heritage-listed place, Rachel and JP won them over with their smiles, service, great coffee, and fresh menu.
As the Company prepared for their return to Walsh Bay, they asked the Calvarusos to come along and take over the cafe attached to their rehearsal space along the finger wharves of Walsh Bay.
The menu that won Mr Jones a legion of fans has remained the same, with offerings that range from seared tuna poke bowls to loaded cheeseburgers. And of course, the coffee is still a mandate, and JP and crew still make a point of getting to know everyone’s name, not just their order.
The only thing that has changed is rather than serving just that one building; anyone can come by for something to eat and drink.
Take note, though, as it is relatively hidden without signage, so look for the table and chairs outside the Sydney Dance Company entrance.
So, whether it’s for a nearby meeting, before or after dance class, or even on your walk to Barangaroo, stop in for a bite or a cuppa, and you’ll leave with a smile.
— Sydney Dance Company, 15 Hickson Rd, Wharf 4/5; Instagram: @mrjones.walshbay
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