Australia’s rising next-generation spirit kings and queens

The alcoholic spirits industry is booming in Australia as consumer demand drives both quality and variety. Meet the new kids on the block, ready to take on the big players.

Australia punches well above its weight when it comes to making spirits.

Brands like Archie Rose, Four Pillars, Lark and Manly Spirits are among our international success stories.

But marching close behind is a new wave of distillers, putting their own twist on the classics – such as a Sangiovese Gin and cane juice rum.

Business strategists say consumers have become more educated and adventurous in their choices, with spirits now perceived as a “connoisseur” item.

“Despite tough economic conditions … consumers (are) choosing to drink less but better. This drove an increase in total value spending on spirits,” director of the Business Lab at Griffith University Graeme Hughes said.

“Spirits have become competitive by offering diverse options, focusing on quality, and capitalising on consumer preferences.

“Additionally, the growing trend of supporting local and smaller businesses and the availability of local craft spirits have further increased competition in the market.”

The “gin collective” behind Papa Salt, (from left) Tom Ackerley, Regan Riskas, Charlie Maas, Josey McNamara and Margot Robbie. Picture: WISH/Jack Lawrence

Papa Salt gin. Picture: Supplied

Celebrities have also entered the market – most recently A-lister Margot Robbie – with her gin label, Papa Salt.

Here are Australia’s emerging spirit kings:

IMBUE DISTILLERY, MELBOURNE

Melanie and Mick Sheard launched the “kooky” Imbue Distillery in Melbourne.

A little bit kooky and a little bit different. That’s how co-founder of Imbue Distillery, Melanie Sheard, describes the brand’s gin, gin liqueur, aperitivo, vodka, brandy and, more recently, whiskey.

Founded by Ms Sheard, her husband, Mick, and friends, Nikki and Luke Treller, Imbue Distillery aims to create spirits with a story.

“We love how the sense of taste is such a powerful gateway into hoarded memories – with every sip, you can reminisce and evoke, and write your future stories,” she said.

Imbue Distillery describes its spirits as “a little bit kooky and a little bit different”. Picture: Supplied

Imbue won a trophy for Best Other Gin for its suburban barrel-aged Apera cask gin at the 2021 Royal Agricultural Society of Victoria Australian Distilled Spirit Awards and was named Best Small Producer at the 2022 Royal Melbourne Show.

Like many non-UK whiskey producers, Mr Sheard said debate over whether or not the term Single Malt could be used in labelling presented a challenge.

Imbue plans to open its own distillery door in the near future.

HUSK RUM – TUMBULGUM, NSW

Husk Distillers – and head distiller Paul Messenger – are pioneering Cultivated Australian rum. Picture: Supplied

A former geologist and an author were the unlikely husband-and-wife founders of Husk Rum, based at Tumbulgum, in northern New South Wales.

“I became obsessed with the idea of creating a new style of Australian rum – Cultivated Australian rum that would reflect our provenance, our place in the world,” says co-founder Paul Messenger.

Husk Rum is Australia’s only farm-to-bottle distillery and its first cane juice rum producer.

Husk Rum is Australia’s only farm-to-bottle distillery. Picture: Supplied

“To the greatest extent possible, every part of the production process from milling, fermentation, distillation, maturation, blending, bottling, even mixing in our cocktail bar is done on site,” Mr Messenger said.

Pure Cane rum has polarised the Australian market – people either love it or hate it.

“There is no middle ground. This is testament to the unique character of Pure Cane,” he said.

And it’s paid off, with Pure Cane winning Best in Class and Best International Rum at the American Distillers Institute Awards in 2021.

NAUGHT – ELTHAM, VICTORIA

Naught was co-founded by former professional basketballer Chris Cameron. Picture: Supplied

Former professional basketballer turned teacher, Chris Cameron, immersed himself into the world of spirits without any prior experience or knowledge.

After working with different botanicals on his stovetop at home – and more than 300 distillations – he launched Naught with co-founder Marcus Hansen.

“Texture is forefront in all our gins – creating an oily but smooth mouth-feel is a hallmark of our products. We want every sip to be savoured and enjoyed,” he said.

“The adoration of feminine strength and beauty is central to our venue and our award-winning gins.”

Naught will soon launch its Sangiovese Gin. Picture: Supplied

While being recognised by global industry professionals has been “extremely rewarding”, Mr Cameron says Covid hit the business for six.

Naught will soon launch of its 2023 Sangiovese Gin – the only Sangiovese gin in the world.

GRAINSHAKER, MELBOURNE

Grainshaker head distiller Sebastian Reaburn creates handmade Australian vodka. Picture: Supplied

In three short years, Grainshaker became the first Australian vodka to be nominated as Global Vodka Producer of the Year at the 2023 International Wine and Spirits competition.

The team has also won awards for its Grainshaker Corn and Wheat blends, and is the official vodka of the Australian Open.

Head distiller Sebastian Reaburn turned his passion for making cocktails into distilling.

“We set out to create a brand that was a bit cheeky and irreverent with really high quality distillation,” says Mr Reaburn.

Grainshaker is all about the grain, says head distiller Sebastian Reaburn. Picture: Supplied

“After hundreds of years of pretentious European vodka, Aussies are crashing the party; the untamed emu taking on the heavy weight international conglomerates that currently dominate the Australian spirit market,” he said.

As the name suggests, Grainshaker is all about the grain, which the team hopes will shake up the industry.

“Life is serious, drinking vodka doesn’t have to be,” he said.

WAUBS HARBOUR DISTILLERY, TASMANIA

Waubs Harbour Distillery’s Peter Warner and Tim Polmear. Picture: Supplied

Waubs Harbour Distillery is fast becoming known for producing distinct maritime single malt whisky products. Picture: Supplied

The idea for Waubs Harbour Distillery was sparked one chilly Tasmanian night, as brothers Tim and Rob Polmear sat around a campfire.

Fast forward five years, and Waubs Harbour Distillery is fast becoming known for producing distinct maritime single malt whisky products.

“We’re lucky to live in Tasmania where there is a strong whisky community, many artisan producers,” Tim Polmear said.

Waubs Harbour whisky embraces the Tasmanian wild maritime environment. Picture: Andrew Wilson

“(Waubs whisky) is less about it tasting salty and more about how that changes toffee notes into salted caramels, and how it helps balance out sweetness with savoury.”

Waubs’ popularity has brought its share of business headaches, such as selling out some products within the first hour of release.

Then there’s the location.

“The distillery, an old oyster hatchery and abalone farm, sits metres from the ocean … salt penetrates every crack within the old buildings which rusts every metal surface it touches,” he said.

“We currently have over 800 barrels all resting between three and 30 metres from the ocean.”