Fashion Week 2022: Event now a showcase for young Australian designers

Ahead of this year’s Australian Fashion Week, a number of long-time figures in the industry want action to restore the event to its glory days, when it attracted top models.

Australian Fashion Week has gone from the hottest fashion ticket in town to an event predominantly for emerging designers, prompting industry veterans to call for a shake-up to entice big-name designers back to the catwalks.

Unlike fashion weeks in Paris, Milan, London and New York, where global brands dominate the shows and the headlines, the changing face of what is now known as Afterpay Australian Fashion Week has resulted in fewer big names participating.

This year’s AAFW will run from May 9-13 at Carriageworks and aside from Bassike, Oroton, Bec + Bridge, Bianca Spender, Aje, Romance Was Born and Sass & Bide, the schedule has been filled by little-known brands aiming to lift their profile.

Household-name brands including Zimmermann, Scanlan Theodore, Dion Lee, Camilla and Marc and Alex Perry haven’t shown at the ­26-year-old event for a number of years.

“There are a sprinkling of established designers, but the majority of those showing are budding brands which need to get their name out there,” one experienced insider said.

Model Erin Wasson (2nd from left) and Ksubi designers Dan Single (left) and George Gorrow (far right) at Fashion Week in 2007. Picture: AAP Image

“In saying that, it has always been a little bit about emerging designers. I remember when Ksubi did their first show. There’s no doubt Fashion Week helped build their profile and get the industry’s attention.

“But absolutely there are more new labels than established ones this year.

Fashion designer Collette Dinnigan (left) with actor Cate Blanchett at Fashion Week in 2000.

“Maybe those big names don’t need to show anymore because social media has put them on the global stage.”

Design powerhouse Perry only missed one year in two decades before stopping in 2015, stating then he was focusing on his international efforts.

Perry was known for being able to lure big names to the once-prestigious event, with models Alessandra Ambrosio and Linda Evangelista walking in his shows.

Shows which once lured the likes of Cate Blanchett, Jerry Hall and Elle MacPherson to the front row are now hosting social media fashion influencers and brand ambassadors.

Linda Evangelista shows an Alex Perry dress during the 1997 Australian Fashion Week in Sydney.

Last year the general public were invited to attend (paying from $120), in an attempt to give the event a more consumer-friendly format similar to that of Melbourne’s Fashion Festival.

The changes have resulted in some industry experts questioning whether the current structure should change.

Currently, the NSW government pays global company International Management Group (IMG) an undisclosed amount to hold the event.

The government would not disclose to Sunday Confidential how much it has paid IMG in recent years, due to the “commercial in confidence” clause.

However, a NSW government spokesperson said: “Afterpay Australian Fashion Week in Sydney is Australia’s only international fashion event, providing designers with a global platform to connect with the world’s leading buyers, media and consumer audiences.”

One veteran publicist, who has been involved with the event for more than a decade, said the cost of putting on a show can often blow out and some designers don’t see the value in participating as they already have a global presence.

Fashion designer Alex Perry and Brazillian model Alessandra Corine Ambrosio.

Actor Cate Blanchett with fashion designer Marc Keighery and singer Macy Gray at Fashion Week in 2000.

“Camilla and Marc, Zimmermann and Scanlan, etc, they already have a huge global presence, so there’s not much more AAFW would do for them,” she said.

“And to take part, these designers need to pay for PR, a venue, hair and make-up, models, afterparties, etc.

“When I was doing PR for these brands it would often cost a minimum of $200,000 to put on a show. It’s often more about being an ego boost than being commercially beneficial.

“Another point to make is that if you are a budding designer taking part in the event, yes, you might have international buyers there who want to pick you up, but if they do make an order, will those newer brands have the capital to be able to follow through with it?”

Another insider believes the structure should be changed so that the NSW government pays the money directly to designers so they can put on a show as part of a not-for- profit event.

Fashion industry veteran Theo Onisforou, who 22 years ago with Mark Keighery paid $100,000 to bring American singer Macy Gray to Australia for their Marcs show, is one of the many calling for change.

“As always, the question should be asked: ‘is there a better way to do Fashion Week?’,” Onisforou said.

“Could it be that the government money, and I would love to know how much they give to IMG, would be better spent supporting each individual that wishes to participate in Fashion Week and perhaps the Australian Fashion Council take charge of the event on a not-for-profit basis.”