Queen Mary’s proclamation dress gets thumbs up from fashion expert for its understated elegance
Queen Mary’s choice of dress for her proclamation ceremony contains a powerful meaning, a leading fashion expert says.
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The Danish designer behind Queen Mary’s cream-coloured crepe change of throne dress, Søren Le Schmidt, has said designing the dress for the world stage was “the wildest thing I’ve ever done.”
“Now I have worked closely with Crown Princess Mary several times, but to be the one who makes the first dress she wears as Queen means the world,” he told Billed Bladet Danish newspaper.
“I am very proud and very happy and honoured and very grateful that I was allowed to make exactly this dress.
“My phone is red hot right now with people from all over the world calling, including American Vogue and other major international fashion magazines and Hello Magazine.”
There were no tiaras or bling for Queen Mary as she took the Danish throne, instead her choice of outfit for the proclamation was suggestive of a “fresh start” like a wedding dress might be, says a fashion expert.
Digital director of Vogue Australia Francesca Wallace said Mary’s outfit was “a masterful stroke of understated elegance”.
“The white colour is an interesting choice, but conveys a traditional ‘fresh start’ like a wedding dress might, and also hints at a place of neutrality and peace,” Ms Wallace said.
“The gown’s beautifully draped detailing and flattering cut means it fits Queen Mary like a glove, and is a lesson in simple design, letting the impressive royal brooches do the talking for the new Queen.
“It seems a very Danish choice, preferring instead for the gravity of the moment to speak for itself, and allowing the dress to be second.”
Ms Wallace said Mary has had a long and fruitful relationship with designer Le Schmidt with the Copenhagen-based atelier dressing the new Queen for a number of occasions, everything from galas to the recent coronation of King Charles in London.
She said the designer was known for his sharp tailoring and vivid colours, and this latest creation follows elements of design he’s done for Mary before — including the “beautifully draped sash-turned-neckpiece which gives the gown a wonderful flowiness”.
“Overall, the look is elegant, simple and fit for a Queen – an exquisite choice which proves Mary’s modern royal dressing is very much up to the task,” Ms Wallace said.
As is custom for a royal ascension in Denmark there were no crowns on display.
The only jewellery was a brooch from the Danish Ruby Parure, worn as a stomacher, and matching earrings which again were fairly restrained for a royal occasion such as this.
The royal children’s outfits were fairly standard and conservative, not a lot of pomp or glamour going on — as is tradition with the Danish kids.
Ms Wallace said the girls’ understated coat dresses were practical for the Danish winter, and the boys’ suits were classic formal attire for a Sunday event.
“The choice of colours, red on Princess Isabella (for Denmark’s flag) and navy for the others, is a neutral without being black, but otherwise allows their parents to shine and let their mother’s creamy gown take centre stage,” Ms Wallace said.
While there were very few images of Queen Margrethe, the magenta skirt suit set and fur overcoat was not a drastic departure from her usual clothing.
Ms Wallace said the message was, “nothing showy to see here, as is Queen Margrethe’s standard”.
“She doesn’t appear to even be wearing any jewellery, most likely to take the focus off the former queen and allow her son and Queen Mary to shine,” she said.