Bangkok, Thailand: Experience the Eastern and Oriental Express

There’s more to the Thai capital than its backpacker strip. If you want to see its other side add these top spots to your list.

Wat Arun in Bangkok, Thailand

There is more to Bangkok than the backpacker strip of Khaosan Rd.

From palaces decorated in broken teacups to a luxury train that would rival the Hogwarts Express, Thailand’s capital has something for all types of holiday-makers.

FOR THE FOODIE

After eating authentic local cuisine, you will feel guilty for ever combining a recipe base and a rice cooker and calling it Thai. Head to a cooking school in Bangkok and you will not only bring home a new skill but will be able to relive your trip every time you pull out the recipe.

I did a half-day course with Amita Thai Cooking Class on the Chao Phraya River in old Bangkok.

Getting there was half the fun as the included transfer took us via longboat down the river past temples and the homes of the river dwellers. We saw komodos swimming in the water and sunbaking on locals’ front steps.

Take a Thai cooking class.

The class was thorough. We started with a tour of the herb garden — sniffing and chewing our way through the leaves, roots and chillies — then were introduced to our menu. Our instructors demonstrated the four courses and handed out taste tests along the way.

By the time we had tried coconut pancakes, deep-fried chicken wrapped in pandanus leaves, wok-fried grounded pork with holy basil and spicy prawn soup we were already full — and we hadn’t even started cooking yet!

Each person in our group of nine was assigned a cooking station and ingredients and guided through the recipe. Then we all sat down for a feast.

FOR THE CULTURE VULTURE

The city’s most famous landmark, the Grand Palace, is a complex of detailed, ornate buildings which has been the official residence of the king since the 18th century.

On some buildings, our guide tells us, old teacups have been broken and reshaped to create flowers.

Tourists and locals visit the Grand Palace each day and at the moment many dress in black as Thailand is in an official period of mourning following the death of King Bhumibol Adulyadej.

This isn’t compulsory but be sure to cover your shoulders and knees and bring your passport.

A highlight of the Grand Palace’s grounds is the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew) which houses, you guessed it, a Buddha statue made of …. jade. You thought I was going to say emerald. Actually, the name was lost in translation.

The Buddha, about 66cm tall, is impressively carved from a single block and it is dressed in a different robe depending on the season.

While in the area, fashionistas can also visit Wat Pho (the Reclining Buddha Temple) and Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles. The museum documents how the queen transformed Thai silk into a national symbol and displays a collection of her dresses.

The Eastern and Oriental Express.

FOR THE COUPLE

Stepping onto the Eastern and Oriental Express feels like stepping into the pages of a Harry Potter or Sherlock Holmes book.

Unlike on a regular train, the decor is luxurious, the lighting is soft, the seats are comfortable and the passengers are social. Oh, and unlike a regular train it doesn’t take you to work but on a scenic trip from Bangkok to Malaysia and Singapore, filled with fine dining, cocktails and live music.

Trips run for two, three or six nights, with day excursions such as a cruise along the River Kwai and visit to the War Museum, and a guided tour of Kuala Kangsar.

The real highlight, however, is the food. All on-board meals are included in the train ticket and comprise in-cabin continental breakfasts as well as three-course lunches and four-course dinners in the train’s restaurant car.

The train also has a bar car featuring the music of a resident pianist, a saloon car with a small library, and an observation car where passengers can take in the views with the wind in their hair (and connect to Wi-Fi).

The train holds a maximum of 82 guests, most of which you will likely know by the end of your journey.

CRU Champagne Bar at Red Sky, Centara Grand at CentralWorld. Picture: Supplied

FOR THE PAMPERED

If you love to live five-star but are on a three-star budget, beautiful spas and hotels abound in Bangkok and charge well below Australian prices.

I went to Let’s Relax Onsen and Spa in Thonglor, Bangkok (in Grande Centre Point Sukhumvit hotel), spending an hour and a half in the Japanese-style onsen baths before having a Thai massage.

The onsen, which is clothing-free but gender-segregated, offers five communal baths ranging from 18 to 42 degrees and advertising a range of benefits.

A gero hot spring bath is said to ease muscles and stress meanwhile a silk bath enriched with antioxidants hydrates the body, a soda water bath improves blood circulation, a whirlpool bath of jet streams gives a water massage, and a cold bath closes pores and tightens skin.

Also included in the onsen is a steam room and sauna to sweat out the toxins as well as a hot stone bed to lie on.

Let's Relax Spa and Onsen, Bangkok.

Meanwhile, Thai massages, if you haven’t had one, are more of a stretch-out than a chance to fall asleep.

I came out of mine feeling super flexible and about 2cm taller. I was converted from “don’t touch me, I’m ticklish” to “I love massages, let’s have another”.

For most of my time in Bangkok, I stayed at Centara Grand at Central World, starting each day with a huge buffet breakfast and ending it with a swim overlooking the cityscape or with dinner and cocktails at Red Sky on the hotel rooftop.

The restaurant and bar’s magnificent food and service is matched only by its views over Bangkok from 55 floors up.

Centara Grand hotel is part of shopping complex Central World, which is the largest mall in Thailand. You should find what you want here but in case you don’t, Central World is also connected by skywalk to shopping at MBK, Central Chidlom, Gaysorn Plaza, Amarin Plaza, Siam Paragon and Siam Discovery.

The writer was a guest of Belmond and the Tourism Authority of Thailand

ESCAPE ROUTE

Getting there

Qantas, Emirates, Thai Airways and Bangkok Airways operate direct fights from Australia to Bangkok. qantas.com; emirates.com; thaiairways.com; bangkokair.com

Staying there

A superior room at Centara Grand at Central World starts at 4171THB (A$163) a night including tax. A superior room at AETAS Bangkok starts at 2925THB (A$114) a night including tax.

centarahotelsresorts.com/centaragrand/cgcw;bangkok.aetashotels.com