Restaurant review: Bender’s Bar, South Brisbane

With multiple high-profile casualties of late, opening a burger joint in Brisbane may seem a foolhardy move. But one celebrity chef believes he can pull it off. Here’s how it stacks up.

THE Brisbane burger scene has been more up and down in the past 18 months than a restaurant reviewer’s weight on the scales.

There have been plenty of high-profile closures including Neil Perry’s Burger Project, Miel Container in the CBD and Sunnybank, Archie’s Burgers in Fortitude Valley and Da’Burger (though its New Farm outlet was saved by a dedicated customer who bought the business).

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Perry’s Rockpool Dining Group blamed a saturated market for deciding to pull the pin on its two stores, while others went into liquidation.

So it would seem like a pretty risky (some may say ballsy) move to open a burger joint after watching some of your competition crumble like a shortbread biscuit.

But that’s exactly what former TV chef Ben O’Donoghue has done.

After developing a strong local following for his classic cheeseburger at his two Billykart restaurants in Brisbane’s West End and Annerley, he recently took over the tenancy opposite his West End eatery and set up Bender’s — a small sports bar serving just five burgers and five snacks.

The interior of Bender's Bar, South Brisbane

The space nods to the traditional American diner with leather booth seating, but speaks of Queensland thanks to rustic timber tables, jade-coloured VJs, touches of greenery and a small alfresco area, which offers some reprieve from the racket inside when the place is busy.

Like the food offering, the drinks list is a minimal, price-savvy affair with only six wines by the glass – all for $10 – and five beers and one cider on tap.

There’s also XXXX Gold in cans in the fridge, and a handful of basic spirits behind the bar.

It’s certainly not going to win any prizes but it’s enough to pair with one of the burgers.

O’Donoghue’s classic cheeseburger ($13.50) makes the list – a mustard-dominated milk bun creation featuring a beef patty, garlic pickles, ketchup, onion and cheese.

He’s also trying to cater to the West End vegan crowd with a limp cauliflower version ($14) with green goddess dressing, but should probably leave it to the plant-based burger joint Grassfed around the corner.

One of the burgers at Bender's Bar, South Brisbane

Better though is the chicken sando ($16, pictured), starring fried chicken and plenty of bacon dripping with ranch dressing. But arguably the best meal of them all is not a burger but a side of hot wings ($12).

The fiery free-range chicken pieces come splattered with hot sauce, the meat falling off the bone and the coating golden and crisp. Just don’t waste your calories on the Bender fries ($10) with the cheese sauce tasting more artificial than Kim Kardashian’s face looks.

Among the prolification of burger outlets in the city, Bender’s is more of a team player than a MVP, but when it comes to wings, it has potential for best on ground.