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New Zealand's North Island: Every day a different journey

TODAY all of this is yours to explore.

“Kia ora.” These are the first two words you need to know for your New Zealand adventure, and ones you’ll be quickly saying.

You will hear this friendly salutation dozens of times a day. Everyone from the jovial waiter pouring your orange juice at breakfast to the knowledgeable guide leading you on a tramp along a beautiful bush trail and the wise elder welcoming you into a marae, a Maori meeting house, will use the phrase to make you feel welcome.

You have to love a country that adopts a phrase meaning “be well’’ as its unofficial greeting, but that is New Zealand’s style.

There’s more to the land across the Tasman than four million people waiting to wish you well, with the regions crowning the country’s stunning North Island offering hidden gems around every corner and the opportunity to fill vacation days with activities and sights that mix the energetic and the indulgent.

It’s a destination that promises the chance to see glowworms in underground caves and walk in the crater of an active volcano before lingering over a meal carefully crafted by a chef using only local ingredients and soaking in a pool filled with warm mineral-rich water drawn from deep underground.

And the very best thing about a holiday to New Zealand’s stunning North Island?

Besides being three hours from Australia’s east coast, every day is a different journey.

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AUCKLAND

News_Module: Auckland

TODAY: You savour the fruits of the North Island

TOMORROW: You roam golden hills

Auckland is buzzing, humming, whirring with the sort of vibrancy found only in a young city occupied by residents that share a passion for living and a lust for the good things in life.

New Zealand’s biggest settlement is cosmopolitan and charming, thanks to an assortment of agreeable neighbourhoods filling the inner-city blocks, and boasts the luxuries needed to satisfy travellers from abroad like smart hotels and bustling eateries serving the sort of food that make a three-hour hop across the Tasman worthwhile.

But there’s more to this place than its urban appeal, and there’s no better way to start a visit to New Zealand’s magnificent North Island than boarding a ferry at Quay Street and cruising into Hauraki Gulf to explore the islands that occupy the sparkling water between the metropolis and The Coromandel.

Waiheke Island is one of the best and, while locals joke there was once a time when officials couldn’t give land away, it’s now home to an eclectic population of more than 8000 people – millionaires live in mansions beside surfers in shacks and bohemian artists share a fence with savvy vignerons – swelling to 40,000 sunseekers during the warmer months.

Car and passenger ferries dart to the island but those visiting for the day may prefer engaging the services of a guide from Ananda Tours to do the driving and efficiently blend the best of the island’s attractions and cultural essence.

Start with morning tea at one of the quiet cafes in Oneroa, walk through an art gallery or homewares store, visit Rangihoua Estate which produces award-winning olive oil; stroll along 2km of sand at Onetangi Beach; then ascend the island’s second-highest peak to enjoy an adrenalin-packed encounter with EcoZip Adventures.

News_Image_File: Waiheke Island is one of the best ferry trips to take from Quay Street.

Waiheke is one of New Zealand’s premier winemaking regions - fast becoming famous for red varieties crafted from grapes grown in sun-soaked vineyards – and there are 20 estates with cellar doors and as many excellent fine-dining establishments where guests can graze alfresco while savouring a view and nursing a glass of the award-winning wines.

Nearby Rangitoto Island is the youngest parcel of land in Auckland’s gulf – it only appeared 600 years ago when a volcanic eruption pushed the mountain above the waves – and a recent conservation campaign – made the plot predator free so a menagerie of native birds and animals could be reintroduced.

Energetic visitors can hike from the wharf to the top of the now-dormant summit – a tramp that takes an hour with extra time needed to divert to the lava caves – or follow the paths that skirt the coast to the vast lava fields above the lighthouse.

But there’s also an easyoption with a sturdy tourist train – a cart hauled up the scoria slopes by tractor, and a knowledgeable driver telling stories during the expedition – with this alternative only demanding visitors climb the last 300 steps to take in the breathtaking view from the island’s highest point.

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GO WEST

The North Island narrows near Auckland which means it’s only a short drive to get from the big smoke in the east to the celebrated black-sand beaches lining the country’s rugged west coast.

On the drive west travellers drift through Kumeu, New Zealand’s oldest wine region which is home to an array of boutique vineyards, before pausing to follow the walking trails to Kitekite Falls and Karekare Falls in the Waitakere Ranges or wander the Mercer Bay Loop to peer across the Tasman Sea’s blue waters.

Piha is home to the west coast’s black-sand beaches and visitors can hike to the top of Lion Rock to take in the panoramic view or join a class learning to surf in the settlement that witnessed the birth of New Zealand’s surf culture back in the 1950s.

It’s only half an hour back to Auckland from Piha so dinner at one of the elegant eateries in Britomart – a vibrant city enclave recently gentrified – isn’t out of the question after a few hours immersed in the saltsoaked air on the west coast.

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HAMILTON AND THE WAIKATO

News_Module: Hamilton &Waikato

TODAY: Your Middle-earth adventure unfolds

TOMORROW: Discover creatures living in ancient caves

When Sir Peter Jackson was looking for a location to play The Shire in The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit films he found exactly what he was looking for deep in the heart of the Waikato.

The bucolic loveliness stretching around the farming community of Matamata – a landscape dominated by rolling hills so green they appear to be hiding under a sheet of emerald velvet and surrounded by the dark mountains of the Kaimai Ranges in the distance – was the perfect place to create Middle-earth.

Hobbiton now occupies a hidden corner of the Alexander family’s 500ha sheep and cattle farm with 44 theatrical “hobbit holes” set into the hills around the fabled Party Tree and near a working tavern that serves rustic snacks and character-appropriate beverages.

Those who venture on to the peaceful property are excited by the real Hollywood set and the attention to detail used to make the fictional hamlet look authentic and magical on the big screen

But there’s more to the Waikato region than a fanciful film set. Hamilton is a friendly university town that enjoys a thriving food scene with assorted eateries lining Victoria Street. It’s also home to the Hamilton Gardens and its many growing galleries.

Hamilton also serves as a gateway to the famous Waitomo Caves - the legend of which began with the creation of limestone at the bottom of the ocean. The caves are a complex of underground chambers offering everything from noteworthy Maori sites and impressive rock formations.

It’s a surreal space that’s home to a colony of glowworms that shine neon in the silence of subterranean darkness.News_Rich_Media: The set of The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit is now a popular tourist attraction in Waikato.

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ROTORUA

News_Module: Rotorua

TODAY: You see the earth roar

TOMORROW: You’ll discover a world of hidden treasures

Rotorua rests in the heart of New Zealand’s famous geothermal zone – a volcanic band stretching from the Bay of Plenty to the Tongariro National Park – with any visit to this part of the country is all about ancient volcanoes, spewing geysers, steaming springs, and bubbling mud.

Polynesian Spa offers a chance to become literally submerged in one of Rotorua’s geothermal attractions with the thermal pools – both public and private ponds set on the edge of Lake Rotorua – drawing hot mineral-rich water from nearby springs celebrated for healing or hydrating qualities.

HELiPRO flies to the summit of Mt Tarawera, a dramatic volcano on the edge of town. The sightseeing flight crosses Green Lake and Blue Lake before circling the craters gouged into the hill long ago by the molten hot lava.

The HELiPRO pilot lands on the peak before leading passengers on a hike along a lofty track to peer into the deep scars cut when columns of lava shot into the sky and take in the view to White Island in one direction and Mt Ruapehu in the other.

Visitors should make time to visit Wai-O-Tapu Geothermal Wonderland, or explore the Hamurana Springs Track through the redwood grove, before dedicating an evening to savouring Maori culture at Te Puia.

The centre was established in the 1960s to teach Maori arts but has blossomed into an attraction where travellers interested in the traditions of New Zealand’s first residents can discover customs, appreciate music and dance, and learn about weapons and cooking techniques.

The evening Te Po starts with a visit to a pit where a traditional hangi feast is prepared in an earth oven before a ceremonial powhiri welcome and a kappa haka cultural performance inside the community’s meeting house.

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LAKE TAUPO

News_Module: Taupo

TODAY: The land will tell stories of its own

TOMORROW: You will encounter emerald lakes in barren lands

There’s nothing quite like waking up in Taupo and throwing open the curtains to gaze across the deep blue of the lake to the snow-covered peaks far across the water.

Lake Taupo is New Zealand’s largest lake – roughly the same size as Singapore and covering 600sq km right on the North Island’s spine – and the ideal place to get into New Zealand’s glorious wide-open spaces.

The folks at Sail Barbary Cruises are the people to see about spending time on the water, to visit the hidden Maori rock carvings or indulge in a spot of trout fishing with an on-board chef ready to prepare the catch for lunch, while Taupo’s floatplane offers sightseeing flights across the lake to the volcanic mounds in Tongariro National Park.

Chief pilot Neil Kemp’s sturdy aircraft flies south from the top of the lake and over the string of peaks that dot New Zealand’s first national park so passengers can peer down at the volcanic craters filled with water that takes on vibrant jewel-like shades of blue and green.

The route continues across Crater Lake, over the long ski runs that lace the slopes of Mt Ruapehu, then heads north to soar above Mt Ngauruhoe and Mt Tongariro before an easy descent to land near Lake Taupo’s little marina.

There’s another waterborne activity calling those that feel a need for speed with Hukafalls Jet’s agile blue boats screaming across the water between Huka Falls and the dam a few kilometres down river.

Every couple of minutes during the ride the boat’s driver – or perhaps pilot would be a better description – lifts his hand above his shoulder and loops his fingers to indicate he’s about to do one of the jet boat’s signature spins then winds the wheel so vigorously that the boat performs a quick circle on the spot.

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BAY OF PLENTY

News_Module: Bay of Plenty

TODAY: You will walk on an active volcano

TOMORROW: You will soak in sun-drenched shores

Ask a New Zealander where they spent summer holidays when they were growing up and there’s a good chance their lips will curl into a smile as they fondly recall long days enjoying the sand and sea on beaches in the shadows of the Bay of Plenty’s Mount Maunganui.

But there’s more to this destination than an amiable atmosphere, with today’s visitors allowed to take a walk on the wild side by exploring the rumbling crater of an active volcano.

White Island is New Zealand’s most lively volcano – it’s 49km from the coast and can often only be spotted thanks to the cloud of steam that rises above the caldera – with a scenic boat trip to White Island thanks to Peejay White Tours.

Once you set foot on the grey powder-like dirt, and passengers swap life vests for hard hats and gas masks, there’s time to explore on foot and peer into the thundering crater before exploring what remains of the mining operation that once saw workers living on this unstable plot.

A visit to the Bay of Plenty also offers the opportunity to step inside Mataatua Wharenui a significant Whakatane structure said to be New Zealand’s most travelled meeting house after it was gifted to Queen Victoria in the 1870s and spent decades in the UK and Australia.

A tour of the historic meeting house includes a light show that highlights the intricate wood carvings on the internal walls, as well as stories about the local Maori tribe, and there will be time to talk to community elders after experiencing the rituals and customs of the the occasion.

Tauranga is also home to the Blokart Recreation Park where thrill seekers can ride the speedy land sailing vehicles invented in this part of New Zealand.

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COROMANDEL

News_Module: Coromandel

TODAY: You will see rivers fall from above

TOMORROW: You’ll feel warm water rise through the sand

When it comes to lazy days by the waves, and the relaxed vibe that only sleepy seaside villages can offer, it’s hard to go past The Coromandel, which is the peaceful peninsula forming one side of the North Island’s Hauraki Gulf, an easy drive – or ferry ride – from Auckland.

Cathedral Cove is a must and while it’s easy to paddle to the landmark with a guide from Cathedral Cove Kayak Tours, or dart to the spot with Hahei Explorer, an agreeable option is to join the team from Glass Bottom Boat in Whitianga and spend a couple of tranquil hours exploring the weathered coastline.

The journey begins by cruising across Mercury Bay, pausing to hear yarns about the rock formations and hamlets that line the shore, and then it’s into the marine reserve to see the bridge of rock spanning the glorious white sand at Cathedral Cove.

The boat’s captain pauses to lift the floor and reveal the glass bottom so passengers can see the bright and busy schools of snapper dashing about below the vessel before skirting Mahurangi Island, pausing at Motueka Island to spot New Zealand fur seals snoozing in the sun, and passing Champagne Bay on the way to the Orua Sea Cave.

Hot Water Beach is another of the area’s hidden gems. Those who find this sleepy settlement at the end of a pretty country road are invited to venture on to the sand to feel the temperature of the warm water that rises to the surface around low tide and then dig a private pond for an impromptu soak.

The Coromandel is home to some quaint villages – settlements offering everything from colourful histories stretching back to the gold-mining days to communities filled with artists – as well as beaches safe for swimming and great for surfing.

News_Rich_Media: Explore The Coromandel with a ride on the picturesque Hauraki Rail Trail.

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NORTHLAND

News_Module: Northland

TODAY: Explore islands rising from turquoise waters

TOMORROW: You will see great oceans collide

Northland is the jewel in the crown of New Zealand’s North Island, boasting 114 unique islands and aquatic adventure such as diving, fishing and swimming with dolphins.

The territory that proudly caps the country is the place the first Maori landed after an epic paddle across the Pacific, as well as being the spot the earliest European settlers put down roots, and is now celebrated as the location where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed in the 19th Century.

A three-hour drive or 45-minute flight takes visitors and adventurers from urban Auckland to Northland’s quiet east coast where the Dolphin Seeker leaves the wharf at Paihia for a sightseeing voyage to the Hole in the Rock near the lonely lighthouse at Cape Brett.

There’s the opportunity to hike to Cape Brett, with the testing trail following the slopes of the coastal hills, but the effortless option is to go by boat and listen to tales about this historically and geologically-significant destination while calling into the quiet coves of the islands that dot the bay.

Instead of returning to Paihia at the end of the two-hour voyage, disembark at Russell and wander the quiet lanes of what was New Zealand’s first capital and a place once called the Hellhole of the Pacific when it was home to unruly mariners who crowded onto the lawless streets.

The Waitangi Treaty Grounds, the waterside plateau where a council of chiefs gathered in 1840 to sign a document giving Maori people the rights of British subjects and recognising indigenous land ownership, is a stone’s throw from Paihia.

Visitors can join a guided tour – with some Waitangi hosts related to those in the delegation on that historic day – to hear about the key players and take a journey through the early years of Maori and European settlement before venturing inside the meeting house to see a performance by Waitangi staff keen to showcase their culture.

Find out more at newzealand.com

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Original URL: https://www.couriermail.com.au/news/special-features/in-depth/new-zealands-north-island-every-day-a-different-journey/news-story/5827953e36dda66f0e6a7717960f48f1