New Black Hide by Gambaro at Treasury Casino has backed a winner
We didn’t just eat that tomahawk; we devoured it in all its herbal juiciness and caramelisation that lingered on the palate like an old-growth wine.
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I didn’t know it at the time but I began researching this review about four decades ago when a man named Michael Gambaro waved a preposterously large mud crab under my nose. The arrival of the big muddie at Gambaro’s eponymous seafood restaurant on Caxton St, Petrie Terrace, in inner Brisbane flagged the start of the crustacean season. I was a newcomer to the sport of journalism and Ron, my boss, insisted we capture the moment with a picture worthy of page three. “It’s just as important as getting a picture of the biggest pumpkin at the Ekka,” he declared.
Later, on his birthday, Ron took us to Gambaros for lunch. I hadn’t tasted the mud crab until then, though I’d had the next best thing: succulent yabbies pulled from creeks in outback Queensland where I grew up. The Gambaros prospered, and Michael and sons John, Donny and Frank eventually opened Black Hide steakhouse across the road from their seafood joint. Twice Black Hide won steakhouse of the year in the Restaurant & Catering Awards. It can thank the Menegazzo family’s Stanbroke pastoral company for that. At any given time, Stanbroke may have 215,000 head of cattle on grass and another 30,000 in the feedlot; 80 per cent of its beef is exported to 30 countries. It all sounds very grand but the Menegazzos will be the first to tell you that Stanbroke is a small company in global beef terms.
And now Stanbroke is powering the Gambaro boys in their most ambitious project yet – a second Black Hide steakhouse at Treasury Hotel & Casino in Brisbane’s CBD. It’s fancy. There are three handsomely decorated rooms with views to the Brisbane River and South Bank. There is a cowhide print carpet, and large butchers’ knives on the door handles. It’s called Black Hide by Gambaro and is Black Hide Petrie Terrace on steroids. It’s a hit parade of beef, with some seafood options. Newcomers on the menu include Stanbroke’s export quality wagyu with a marble score of 9+. There are also a 200g eye fillet ($120) and a 200g sirloin ($110). Among the “small plate” starters are arancini with ragu, tomato and fontina ($14.90), each trapping the flavour of Italy inside a crispy ball. Delicious.
The Treasury Black Hide also offers a new range of dry-aged beef not on the menu at Petrie Terrace. I went there with two friends who insisted we share the 1200g Angus tomahawk ($145 for three) which they deduced was better value than the marble score five wagyu ribeyes (300g, $69.50). And just as tasty, I have to say. We didn’t just eat that tomahawk; we devoured it in all its herbal juiciness and caramelisation that lingered on the palate like an old-growth wine.
That tomahawk might have been the best steak I have yet eaten. That day I came to the realisation I prefer the Queensland-flavoured Angus more than the genetically engineered wagyu. Later we shared a dry-aged Angus ribeye (300g, $85) with a depth and complexity of flavours that comes from hanging in the chiller for 28 days.
I came to another conclusion that day. Cabernet sauvignon is a better match for beef than shiraz. We shared a bottle of Vasse Felix 2015 Filius Cabernet ($115), with savoury perfumes (mushrooms?) and sculptured tannins, which paired magnificently with the beef.
Side dishes of steamed vegetables and sauteed mushrooms (both $9.50) were welcome. Service was exemplary. On another visit I ate Italian meatballs and house-made sausages (both $19.50) served with lentils and mushrooms. They were first-rate. On that visit we also savoured some of the best puddings we’ve had in ages – a rhubarb brulee ($14.50), and a sticky caramelised apple with quince and crème fraîche ice cream ($14.50). Again, the kitchen was on top of its game.
Black Hide by Gambaro
Treasury Brisbane Casino
Level 1, Queen Street Mall
treasurybrisbane.com.au/casino-restaurants
BOOK Ph (07) 3306 8420
OPEN Tuesday-Friday, lunch noon-3pm, dinner Tues-Thursday 5.30-10pm,
Fri-Sat 5.30-11pm, Sun 5.30-10pm
VERDICT
Food 10
Ambience 9
Service 10
Value 9
OVERALL 9.5
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