It’s more bar than restaurant but the view from The Terrace is stratospheric

On the 21st floor of Brisbane’s Emporium Hotel South Bank, this indoor/outdoor space could almost double as an airport control tower.

The Terrace at the Emporium Hotel at South Bank.

There are terraces and then there’s The Terrace.

On the 21st floor of Brisbane’s Emporium Hotel South Bank, this indoor/outdoor space could almost double as an airport control tower or a weather station, so stratospheric is its outlook across the CBD and South Bank Parklands to the Gateway Bridge.

But as much as this bird’s-eye perspective is attention-grabbing, so too are the room and decor.

The outdoor area’s tall bar tables are matched with stools covered with white, shaggy faux fur so that they resemble a herd of genetically modified ostriches.

CAPSICUM FOR DESSERT: IS THIS BRISBANE’S ODDEST RESTAURANT

IT WAS A NEAR-PERFECT MEAL, EXCEPT FOR THE SNAKE

Inside, it’s an elegant mash-up of a dramatic silver filigree-lined retractable roof, white backlit onyx tiles on the floor and along the 13m bar, which is backed by an enormous television screen.

The Terrace at the Emporium Hotel South Bank has a retractable roof.

It’s like being in a blingtastic eagle’s nest, that is if the eagle had an interest in, say, caviar martinis, and a penchant for watching high-resolution video clips with varying levels of weirdness.

The night we visited the roof was closed, the aircon on but offset by the warm air flooding in from the wide section of glass open to the outside area.

The ostrich chairs were all taken so we settled into the pistachio green swivelling bucket chairs at an inside circular table, the views still stunning through the floor-to-ceiling glass.

The 14-page drinks list covers most corners of the globe but there’s a refreshing nod to Queensland amid it all.

There are a couple of Granite Belt wines, local craft beers and banana and passionfruit liqueurs from Tamborine Mountain Distillery.

The outdoor area’s tall bar tables are matched with stools covered with white, shaggy faux fur outdoor area.

All-day dining begins at noon, with the one-page menu’s share, small and large options covering more ground than you might expect.

“Share” runs to drinks-friendly grazing with nuts, olives, Korean fried chicken, charcuterie and cheese plates, as well as oysters rendered several ways.

I’ve never met an oyster that improved by the addition of any ingredient and the couple we tried ($4.50 each), one with yuzu mignonette and a fine dice of cucumber and the other baked with tarragon, bacon and smoked butter breadcrumbs, did nothing to dispel that notion, though they were perfectly fine.

The grilled halloumi is a simple dish with halved heirloom tomatoes, a few sprigs of watercress and a couple of small pools of beetroot and balsamic gel.

The “small” selection includes chargrilled Mooloolaba king prawns ($24), an open lobster sandwich ($30), and a very simple dish of grilled halloumi ($16), halved heirloom tomatoes and a few sprigs of watercress with a couple of small pools of beetroot and balsamic gel that weren’t vibrant enough to elevate the combination into anything noteworthy.

With the hotel’s yet-to-be-named signature restaurant on the first floor still a way off with an expected late-April opening, The Terrace offers substantial meals in the form of sage gnocchi ($26), Stockyard black Angus sirloin ($55) and a $195 share chilled seafood platter for two to four people.

Maremma free-range duck breast arrives in slices nicely pink and rested over celeriac puree.

Maremma free-range duck breast ($38) arrives in slices nicely pink and rested over celeriac puree, with Swiss chard and a scattering of puffed barley and ultra-thin slices of Davidson plum.

It’s a simple, well-conceived dish, as is the fillet of Coral Coast barramundi ($32), farmed in salt water at Bowen, which sits over sauteed greens, mainly broccolini, surrounded by a moat of pureed sweet corn flecked with chorizo crumbs.

The stem of sea succulent sitting on top ramps up the ocean vibe but is not helpful in keeping the skin crisp.

The champagne poached peaches are a delicious summery concoction, teamed with champagne granita, honey and candied nuts.

Dessert is a choice of either a pina colada splice ($14), which you could also have in Belle Epoque patisserie on the ground level, or champagne poached peaches ($14).

The splice is an orb of thin chocolate encasing roasted coconut mousse and Malibu-soaked sponge, topped with pineapple lychee compote.

The peaches are a delicious summery concoction, teamed with champagne granita, honey and candied nuts.

Service is attentive and friendly at a venue that’s more bar than restaurant but where you’re in luck if lunch or dinner beckon.

Inside, it’s an elegant mash-up of a dramatic silver filigree-lined retractable roof, white backlit onyx tiles on the floor and along the 13m bar, which is backed by an enormous television screen.

THE TERRACE

Emporium Hotel, 267 Grey St, South Bank

BOOK

[phone]

Reservations for guests and the public for breakfast but after 11am for guests only, unless it’s a group of more than 15

OPEN

Buffet breakfast 6.30-11am; all-day dining menu noon-late

MUST TRY Duck breast

VERDICT

Food 7

Service 8

Ambience 9

Value 7

OVERALL 8/10