Brisbane’s climate is attracting creative people to food scene

The Brisbane food scene is no longer the poor cousin to Melbourne as more creative and talented people are attracted to what the city has to offer, writes chef Ollie Hansford.

BRISBANE is in the midst of a food revolution and it is quite possibly our best-kept secret.

For me, returning to where my Australian cooking journey started is filled with nostalgia and excitement. I’ve arrived back in Brisbane to head Stokehouse Q, after a four-year Melbourne sabbatical. In the brief time I’ve been back, it is clear to see Brisbane has changed and developed a real gutsy, no-nonsense attitude to the food scene — which I think has gone somewhat unnoticed by our interstate counterparts.

There has been an influx of money, talent and youth injected into Brisvegas and now, more than ever before, Brisbane is clipping at the heels of the big smoke of Sydney and Melbourne’s food scene.

Sarah and Tim Scott own Joy Restaurant in the Valley which just opened last week Picture: Jamie Hanson

Small quirky joints like Joy Restaurant are testament to this. Joy, hidden in a back courtyard, serves one menu of the food that the two young chef owners are passionate about, showcasing their vision and philosophy of dining. Meanwhile, the monster that is Howard Smith Wharf comprising of the casual Felon Brewing to the more intricate and up-market Arc restaurant shows us that Brisbane has been crying out for this offering for a while.

These venues show our food culture is shifting and moving towards a more knowledgeable, thought-provoking direction while maintaining our relaxed nature, which sets Brisbane apart from the rest.

You can’t talk about Brisbane without mentioning its incredible climate, and this climate is one of many drawcards that is bringing talent to our venues. Not only are we getting an array of homegrown chefs that are coming into their own, but also those bringing a wealth of interstate or international knowledge and passion as they aim to set-up and settle down here in the Sunshine State.

Chefs like myself wanting to escape the grey smog of London or dreary Melbourne weather, and cook in a venue that you can see daylight from the kitchen, surrounded by friendly faces and using produce that is local and grown with passion.

Sunset over Brisbane City, Queensland. Picture: Brisbane Tourism

Melburnians are very passionate and protective over their food culture, laneways and hidden gems and see Brisbane as a big country town, with not much to offer but the weather.

But we insiders know this is an outdated view and one that the Good Food Guide is helping change, by hosting the awards in Brisbane for the first time in 40 years. This is a huge statement for the State and the culinary push that is happening.

Brisbane has an array of fine produce on its doorstep, ranging from Hervey Bay, Mooloolaba and Moreton Bay for the incredible seafood, through to the Sunshine Coast and Granite Belt for its additional offerings — only possible through Brisbane’s climate.

But further to this, Brisbane offers chefs a real place to call “home” with its welcoming customers, its easy lifestyle and its booming potential. We’ve got a bit of a dark side — mysterious and understated — headed up by people who know what they are doing and yet, are happy to remain our best-kept secret.

Perhaps Brisbane has all the right ingredients to become Australia’s foodie capital — we’re exciting, young, interesting and pushing the boundaries, and we show no signs of slowing down.

Ollie Hansford, newly appointed Executive Chef at Stokehouse Q