Des Houghton: Lockdown lands bosses a $5k fish feast

A Brisbane chef has revealed what lengths restaurants have reached to avoid seafood going to waste when Covid-19 causes them to lock the doors.

Jake Nicolson, the influential Brisbane chef, has been dreaming of the southern rock lobster. And his nocturnal meditations are sometimes interrupted by the ugly face of the Queensland groper.

Both creatures take centre stage at his culinary ambidextrous CBD restaurant Donna Chang, which offers high-end Cantonese and Sichuan cuisine.

Jake Nicolson from Donna Chang with a rock lobster. Picture; Des Houghton

Four lockdowns since March last year left Nicholson wondering what to do with $5000 worth of gropers and lobsters in two tanks at any given time. Of course, they had to be eaten.

“The bosses ate very well for a few weeks there,” he said.

It was a story played out at restaurants across the country. Much produce was dumped when restaurants shut. Nicolson, the executive chef of the Ghanem Group restaurants in Brisbane, which sends excess produce to the food “rescue” group Oz Harvest.

Excess produce from Donna Chang is sent to food ‘rescue’ group Oz Harvest. Picture: Tim Carrafa

I’m delighted to report Donna Chang is in full swing again as guests to the annual Shaw + Smith wines vintage launch found out this week.

Diners with deep pockets feast on the lobster ($160+ a kilo) with Nicolson’s own XO sauce or perhaps ginger and spice or simply with truffle butter.

The dappled groper ($100 a kilo) may not be blessed with good looks but makes up for that with creamy, delectable flavours.

Adonis Ghanem’s Ghanem Group has four restaurants in Brisbane.

The newest is Bisou Bisou (French for “kiss kiss”) in the foyer of the groovy new Hotel X, which also has a rooftop bar.