Des Houghton: I can’t believe it’s pub grub
Local pubs are attracting top chefs and turning out high quality dishes, discovers Des Houghton.
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Pub grub with caviar and truffles served with wine treasures like Henschke Hill of Grace? Welcome to the new culinary order in Queensland with hotels producing restaurant quality food.
I’ll go further, and say some pubs like The Boundary Hotel at West End turn out high quality dishes that would put many “find dining” restaurants to shame.
The Boundary changed hands in 2017 and is booming after a seven-month, $3.5 million renovation. There is a rooftop terrace, a backyard bistro and a number of bars and function rooms.
The new owner Colin Macleod did well hiring Kiwi chef Andrew Musk. Musk, who has cooked at high-end joints like Vanitas at Palazzo Versace on the Gold Coast. Musk hit his straps at a recent Henschke wine dinner for a group of publicans and wine merchants. He produced memorable dishes like spanner crab ravioli in a seafood bisque with confit fennel and caviar, and salt-crusted Black Onyx tenderloin in a shiraz jus with a truffle mash and shitake mushrooms.
Wine aristocrat Justine Henschke, whose family has been making wine for more than 150 years, guided her guests through a stellar line-up of Henschke’s latest releases.
In the latest James Halliday wine rankings, Henschke made six wines that scored 97 to 99 points, four with 96 points and 10 with 90 to 94 points. Halliday named Henschke Winery of the Year. Justine spoke in Brisbane at sell-out lunches and dinners at Emporium’s Signature restaurant, Tatts Club, the Brisbane Club and the Queensland Cricketers’ Club.
