Get to know: Axell Torres, head chef at Bar Patron and his secret to the perfect taco

Axell Torres is the new head chef at Rockpool Group’s Bar Patron, overlooking the Harbour Bridge. He was born in Mexico City and learned to cook from his grandmother who made tomales for a living.

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Axell Torres went from being born in Mexico City to travelling the world and now he’s settled in Sydney, steering the ship at Bar Patron. Get to know the man who’s got the secret for the perfect taco.

How did you come to be here?

I came to here just searching, I was a chef in Adelaide at a Mexican restaurant down there and when the opportunity came up I went for it and I was working here in a couple of weeks.

Axell Torres, head chef at Bar Patrón at The Rocks. Photo: Anna Kucera.

Where were you before Adelaide?

I was in Mexico City and before that I was travelling all over the world. I was born in Mexico City — I learnt to cook from my grandmother who sold pozole and tamales for a living. I learnt to cook just by watching her. She didn’t give me recipes, I just picked it up as we went along.

The well-stocked Bar Patron.

What is one of your favourite food memories growing up?

One memory that comes to mind is when my dad used to take me to a Barbacoa street food vendor, as a little kid. I loved those street tacos. it’s actually one of my favourite dishes of Mexican cuisine. Since then it has become a dad and son tradition.

Tuna Ceviche at Bar Patron. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski

What’s the secret to the perfect taco?

For me the perfect taco is as simple as it gets. It’s just got to be a tortilla, of course fresh and handmade, protein — which could be fish or chicken or beef — and then salsa or a sauce. To me that is the perfect taco — very simple, usually only three ingredients.

What is your vision for Bar Patron? What are some changes you will make and what will you keep the same?

At the moment I’m just settling in. I want to keep the food traditional and true to my Mexican roots. One thing I really want to do is introduce guests to the diversity of Mexican cuisine. Since I joined Bar Patrón we’ve launched a series of regional dinners that explore the different styles of cooking and ingredients used around the country. The next regional dinner features the cuisine of Oaxaca on Wednesday, 18 September. Mexican cuisine is far more diverse than people realise.

Bar Patron by Rockpool interior.

What’s on your Sydney bucket list?

I’m dying to try, since I came to Australia, the Fish Butcher. Josh Niland is a chef that is doing amazing things with the amazing seafood produce that you have here in Australia
so that is definitely on my bucket list.

Chef Josh Niland at work in the Kitchen at Saint Peter. Picture: John Appleyard

Originally published as Get to know: Axell Torres, head chef at Bar Patron and his secret to the perfect taco