New owners save popular Brisbane cafe from closure

Buying a cafe in a pandemic may seem mad, but it’s paying off for this Brisbane restaurateur who has purchased a very popular cafe famous for its revolving “flip board” specials. But is the food as good as it was under founder Naomi “Nims” Zavackas?

IN THE highly competitive breakfast dining scene, The Jam Pantry at Greenslopes, in Brisbane’s south, was always a trendsetter.

Owner Naomi “Nims” Zavackas embraced the bubbling art of fermentation long before it became “cool”, and blended it with her veneration for sustainability to create inventive dishes often not seen on cafe menus in Brisbane.

Zero profits, but this cafe stays open for the regulars

The Brisbane cafe with a secret hide-out

Restaurant review: Kid Curry in Fortitude Valley

Her constantly changing “flip boards” of out-of-the-ordinary meals became famous and customers would drive from the other side of town for her French toast.

But earlier this year she decided to sell the humble, little cottage cafe along Logan Rd for
a new challenge working at South Brisbane’s culinary incubator Wandering Cooks.

The Jam Pantry. Picture: Mark Cranitch

She found a wonderful and equally passionate and prudent owner in Victor Chan to take over the business, but just as the paperwork was drying, COVID-19 and its accompanying dining restrictions set in.

This was more than just bad timing. But Chan was undeterred.

He switched the business to takeaway (which remains), even offering local delivery, and is now seating up to 20 diners under new rules.

In a heartfelt message on the back of the single page drinks menu, Chan explains his reason to open amid a pandemic “the promise of better days ahead. If we can get through this, we can get through everything”.

While it may sound cheesier than a cheddar factory, that optimism and love can be felt among the smiling staff, who seem genuinely thrilled to be there, offering friendly chitchat while ensuring food hits the table with metronomic timing.

Lamb potato hash dish. Picture: Mark Cranitch

And it’s the food that will ensure you’re desperate to be one of those 20 diners.

Before she left, Zavackas spent time training the kitchen crew and sharing her recipes, and her touch can be seen on the continually changing menu which runs from a smoky chorizo, tomato and caramelised onion omelette to lemon pancakes with passionfruit curd and
grilled banana.

Waffles can be a hit or miss affair but the cheese and chive version here ($22) knocks it out of the ballpark. Fluffier than a Shih tzu in the centre with that perfectly crisp crust, I’d happily eat them plain, but they’re of course even better swiped through the accompanying herb-studded goat’s cheese with a slice of smoked salmon. Delicious.

Cheese and chive waffles with salmon. Picture: Mark Cranitch

Maybe even better though is the potato hash ($23, left). Like the ultimate roast dinner in
a bowl, it stars shredded roasted lamb shoulder – the type from an animal that clearly lived a good life, alongside roasted sweet and white potato, buttery wilted spinach, shrivelling hot cherry tomatoes, just-mushed peas, a runny poached egg and a slice of sourdough standing to attention at the side of the bowl.

A choc fudge milkshake made with housemade syrup is a faithful companion, delivering all the joy and delight of your favourite childhood milk-bar version.

Coffee at the cafe uses Supreme beans and is well made, with their mug serving big enough to drown in.

While saying goodbye to The Jam Pantry may have been tinged with sadness for Zavackas, she has left this cosy, comforting cafe in more than safe hands with Chan.