Morningside’s Where The Wolves Eat cafe is a dog’s breakfast

HERE’S a dish you’d have to be a wild dog, ravenous from a hunting trip, to enjoy.

Where The Wolves Eat may sound like a strange name for a cafe, but one bite of the Wolf country pancakes at this new Morningside venture and you’ll know why.

This is a dish you’d have to be a wild dog, ravenous from a hunting trip, to enjoy.

The bizarre and unpalatable, sweet-savoury combination features three flaccid spring-onion-laced pancakes crowned with a “pork and fennel sausage crumble” akin to what those wolves would have chewed, spat out and left to dry in the sun. Then the whole thing is drowned in a chipotle and bourbon-spiked maple syrup more saccharin than an episode of The Love Boat and as successful as the show’s one-season reboot.

Just as disappointing is the croque madame – the classic French cheese and ham sandwich capped with a fried egg – let down by a gloopy cauliflower piccalilli so acidic it burns like reflux.

The quality of the meat-heavy menu is even more dismaying given the pedigree of the owners.

The fresh venture on busy Wynnum Rd, in Brisbane’s east, is from experienced restaurateurs Mal and Danielle Watts, who have had a string of successful suburban eateries and coffee shops to their name including Moose & Gibson in Woolloongabba and Leaf Espresso in Tarragindi.

This was supposed to be the culmination of learnings from their other venues, but so far it sadly hasn’t paid off on the food front.

What is successful though is the ambience. Inside, sunlight streams through full-length windows warming the country cottage-esque space with exposed brick, heavy timber beams and polished concrete.

While outside, a covered courtyard channels the cafes of the Champs Elysees in Paris with black and white wicker chairs.

Service is friendly and welcoming, if a little dithering in the details.

With these veterans of the industry in charge, hopefully they can redo the menu and make it a place where more than just wolves will eat.

WHERE THE WOLVES EAT

591 Wynnum Rd, Morningside

Open 6am-4pm

31895019

VERDICT

food 3

Service 7

Ambience 8

Value 7