Why you must sit indoors at New Queens Wharf restaurant ‘Luc Lac’

This new Queens Wharf restaurant is a fusion of Vietnamese and Thai influences and the fit-out is something truly spectacular. But just make sure you secure a table inside.

Inside the newly opened restaurant Luc Lac at Brisbane City’s under-construction Queens Wharf precinct. Picture: Lyndon Mechielsen

Unless the mercury is over 30C and it’s steamier than an onsen, Queenslanders love nothing more than dining alfresco. But at the newly opened Luc Lac in Brisbane City’s under-construction Queens Wharf precinct, a table inside is must.

The restaurant (pronounced Look Luck) is a fusion of Vietnamese and Thai influences and the fit-out is something truly spectacular.

From the striking gold dragon watching over diners like an imposing protector to the spectacular bar, with its ornate carved timber front and backlit arch of spirits, to the cascading greenery and potted plants, the space feels like a tropical Southeast Asian resort.

Luc Lac is worth visiting, but just make sure you book a table inside. Picture: Lyndon Mechielsen

The only detraction is the restaurant sits on the internal side of the Wharf’s Terrace, meaning it faces into the brightly lit, monolithic chasm of the precinct, which is currently void of personality as work is completed on the surrounding dining and retail venues.

But take a seat indoors and you can be whisked away on a tropical holiday. Emphasising that vacation vibe is the drinks list, with a cocktail and mocktail offering that screams classic poolside bar, but with a sophisticated, modern Asian twist.

Think a pina colada inspired by the Vietnamese pancake banh xeo, a margarita spiked with the Thai chilli dressing nam jim, or my Hanoi Vice – theatrically prepared at the table like a Vietnamese iced coffee, with a strawberry daiquiri base and pineapple and coconut condensed milk.

The wine list is well-matched to the food with plenty of rieslings from around the world and lighter reds, while also providing the quintessential coveted drops from Burgundy with prices ending in the lucky “888” for those who win big at the casino below.

Luc Lac’s hot sticky and sweet chicken wings with garlic and chives. Picture: Lyndon Mechielsen

The menu at Luc Lac is generous yet pared back by Asian restaurant standards, with five categories of dishes, each with about seven options.

That means snacks such as escargot and pork spring rolls; small and light dishes, including wagyu skewers or scallop and prawn wontons; shaken and stirred specialties, like chicken sate or turmeric-marinated swordfish; big and saucy numbers of, perhaps, lemongrass braised pork belly with baby tiger abalone; and rice and side dishes of, say, pork and prawn fried rice. There are two banquets ($98 and $128pp).

The pork and prawn fried rice. Picture: Lyndon Mechielsen

Braised duck leg baos ($28 for two) kick things off, with the buns expertly executed to perfect pillow status, loaded with chunks of duck in an apricot hoisin that adds sweet and sharp notes. It’s followed by the pork belly bun cha ($28) – a classic Vietnamese dish of vermicelli rice noodles, herbs and pork patties.

This version is a cracker, with the meatballs the star, fragrant with lemongrass and fish sauce and retaining all their juices, alongside tender bites of pork belly and a mingling of cucumber, carrot, snow pea tendrils, sprouts and green leaves.

Less impressive is the fried eggplant red curry ($38), with the sauce a little on the thick side and slightly one dimensional, while the eggplant battered in rice flour, tapioca flour and potato starch has an odd chew.

Our accompanying roti ($6) is also on the dry side, while glistening with oil.

Luc Lac’s signature dish, bo luc lac or “shaking beef”. Picture: Lyndon Mechielsen

The restaurant’s signature dish is the bo luc lac ($42), also known as “shaking beef” for how the meat is tossed in the wok while cooking.

While it is Vietnamese, it is most similar to a classic Chinese beef stir-fry, with the meat and accompanying capsicum and onion glazed in soy and oyster sauce with plenty of garlic.

Desserts are in keeping with the Asian theme but, again, with a twist, such as the Viet Misu ($18), which is a spin on the Italian tiramisu.

For a fresh and light finish we opt for the coconut sago pudding ($16), with a tiny glass of palm tree starch topped with petals, pineapple, pandan jelly and dragon fruit cubes that’s sweet but not sickly.

With staff that are well trained, but building experience, Luc Lac offers a fresh chance to try elevated Vietnamese cuisine.

Queens Wharf, The Terrace, Level 4/33 William St, Brisbane City

3187 8088

luclac.com.au

Open

Daily noon-11pm

Must try

Vermicelli and pork belly bun cha

Verdict

Food – 3.5

Service – 3.5

Ambience – 4

Value – 3.5

delicious.com.au/eatout