Why this new Brisbane rooftop bar fails to impress

Rooftop bars have become a Brisbane obsession, but the latest to open in the River City is not quite reaching lofty highs.

Thumping house music echoes throughout the expansive, all-white space, as bartenders shake cocktails almost intrinsically to the beat, and giggly groups of young women toddle about in arch-aching heels, after what may be a few too many bellinis.

This is Lina Rooftop – the city’s latest rooftop bar and restaurant feeding into Queensland’s newly found obsession with eateries in the sky.

Perched on the top floor of the newly constructed Mobo office tower on the corner of Tribune and Merivale St in South Brisbane, the venue’s decor speaks to the Mediterranean, but its inspiration is no doubt from the many rooftop pool decks in Los Angeles and New York, where the ultra glamorous splash around in look-at-me swimwear sipping skinny mojitos.

At Lina Rooftop’s heart is a 30m turquoise-by-day, cobalt-by-night lap pool, surrounded by day beds and L-shaped lounges, which form the venue’s bustling bar area.

But its Santorini-esque good-looks must compete with the glowing city skyline for attention, with the jagged block of buildings across the river the real scene stealer.

Unfortunately, from our cornflower blue booth in the corner of the restaurant, we’re shut off from all this magic by a line of closed bi-fold doors.

Perhaps it’s too windy to have them open at night, or maybe it’s just a way of dividing the two spaces; whichever it is, it means you’ll have to eat off the concise snack-style bar menu outside if you want to enjoy the view with a meal.

Inside in the Greek taverna-look restaurant, the menu echoes the decor, nodding to the Mediterranean with a large seafood component and an approach that’s mostly fresh and healthy.

There’s a raw bar section boasting the likes of freshly shucked oysters, kingfish crudo and sashimi, which is also available by the pool; an entirely seafood-based list of entrees; plus steaks and fish on the grill, a trio of salads and six mixed protein mains.

Steak tartare comes in at a decidedly steep $38 (you won’t even pay that much in the Valley’s trendy James St) and it’s missing the obligatory crisps, leaving guests to eat the mound of raw meat and egg yolk with a fork.

It’s a brutal reminder of how important having something crunchy to scoop up the uncooked beef really is.

The steak tartare at Catalina Brisbane.

Also missing from an entree of Moreton Bay bug raviolo ($28) and a main of confit ocean trout ($40) is salt and lemon juice or acid of some sort, with both dishes almost there but begging for a little brightness to see them truly shine.

While our other main of duck breast ($46) is rendered perfectly blushing, sitting with comfortable, familiar flavours like confit fennel and orange segments. The puree of burnt carrot, however, needs to go, with the brown smear on the base of the plate reduced down to a texture that’s as unpleasant as it is unsightly.

Desserts run from fruit and fromage platters to an unremarkable mango cheesecake, with diners better off to invest their time (and dollars) into one of Catalina’s signature cocktails ($19-$24), like a well-made, super salty-sour margarita.

Or perhaps a glass of wine from the international list, heavy with sauv blanc, rosé, sparkling and chardonnay to suit Queensland tastes. There are also three pages of spirits, plus a collection of local and imported beers, including their own signature lager.

Service is carried out with a smile, efficiency and professionalism – though, the restaurant is near empty during our visit – in complete contrast to the heaving space we witnessed on a Friday night.

And it’s on Friday and Saturday nights where Lina Rooftop might be at its finest – a pumping, energetic and lively venue that’s probably best experienced as a bar and poolside hangout.

LINA ROOFTOP

74-80 Tribune St, South Brisbane

0439 999 870

linarooftop.com.au

Open Wed-Fri 11am-midnight; Sat-Sun 7am-midnight

Verdict

Food 2.5

Service 4

Ambience 3.5

Value 2

Overall 3

For more reviews visit delicious.com.au/eatout