What the new $950 Grange tastes like
Collectors are swooning over this year’s release of the blockbuster Penfolds Grange. But what does our expert think?
QWeekend
Don't miss out on the headlines from QWeekend. Followed categories will be added to My News.
John Gersch collects Penfolds Grange. He even has 13 magnums tucked away, and another magnum will be delivered any day now.
Unlike other collectors, Gersch does not have to pay for them.
This is because his heart and soul is in every bottle. The wine mavens at Penfolds irregularly chose the shiraz grapes he grows at Gersch Vineyard at Moppa in the Barossa Valley for inclusion in the Grange blend.
Penfolds chief winemaker Peter Gago paid tribute to Gersch saying he was one of the “venerable growers” that helped make Penfolds a vintner of global distinction.
The magnums are a special gift for independent growers whose fruit is chosen for the Grange. “It’s amazing,” Gersch said.
More amazing is that Gersch grapes have been supplied to Penfolds for 100 years this year. Gersch’s grandfather Johannes delivered his first batch by horse and cart in 1920; a 3km journey from his vineyard to Penfolds Nuriootpa winery. Gersch’s father Max continued the tradition until his death aged 80. Penfolds tightened its grip on the best grapes recently when it purchased the Botanic Vineyard in Clare Valley. Botanic Vineyard fruit is another regular in the Grange blend.
The release this year of Penfolds Grange 2016 ($950) has already sent collectors swooning with the leaked news that two influential critics, Matthew Jukes in England and Ken Gargett in Australia, will award it perfect scores. The 2016 is reminiscent of the fabled 1990 and 2010 vintages.
It exudes power and authority with a kaleidoscope of blue and black fruit flavours and aromas. Penfolds House Style is to the fore with ripe fruit flavours and chocolate and mocha notes. It’s complex. Leave it sit for five minutes and return to discover new aromas billowing from the glass.
The raspberry red Penfolds 2018 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon ($650) is brooding and powerful with tar and earth and chocolate and juicy blackcurrant flavours.
It will reach its peak around 2050 if you can wait that long. The 707, like the Grange, is a prized collectable and invariably sells out.
Penfolds 2018 Yattarna ($175) proclaims itself the “white Grange” from the first swirl that releases limey, citrus and stone fruit fragrances. It’s poised and refined, Gagos’ tasting notes speaking of a wine “extolling Burgundian restraint”. There is a zesty acidity with juicy nectarine, peach and gentle oak.
Our nation is hooked on shiraz, and Penfolds delivers in myriad styles. None of it is the same.
Penfolds 2018 RWT Bin 798 Barossa Valley Shiraz ($200) is an opulent offering. RWT stands for Red Winemaking Trial. Some trial. It’s been going since 1995 with the first public release in 1997. This edition oozes blackberry and licorice. “RWT is made from fruit primarily selected for its aromatic qualities and plush texture,” Gago said. In contrast, the Grange is more muscular and assertive.
Penfolds 2017 St Henri Shiraz ($135) has a cult following. The first vintage arrived in 1953 and it hasn’t looked back. This year a small proportion of cabernet was added to improve the structure, Gago said. It’s plush and glossy and another intriguing counterpoint to the Grange for shiraz aficionados.
It has a savoury, herbal nose and waves of blackberry, plum, coffee and mocha flavours. Peak drinking from now until 2052.
Sweet cabernet and savoury shiraz merge in the popular Penfolds 2018 Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz ($100). This one has been referred to as a black forest cake style. It’s rich and expressive with fragrant florals and spice.
Bin 389 is often referred to as the “Baby Grange” because some of the components are matured in the same barrels that held the previous vintage of Grange. The more affordable
Penfolds 2018 Kalimna Bin 28 Shiraz ($50) holds its own in this line-up. It’s a ripe and robust warm-climate shiraz with whiffs of crème anglaise, vanilla custard and chocolate, both white and dark. It’s a deep, dark cherry red with bright fruit flavours.
desmondhoughton1@gmail.com