‘Weetbix topped with peaches and cream’: Gold Coast cafe serving up unfussy fare
From quirky takes on basics to creative creations this retro-style cafe is dishing up some winning combinations.
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When I suggest ordering the banh mi-style “long roll” at new cafe Golden Times in Bilinga, on the Gold Coast’s far south, my breakfast date screws up his nose.
That nose then shrivels like a raisin in the sun when I propose going for the marinated eggplant filling over the other option of bacon.
My companion, you see, is a meat man. Try to sway him away from any carnivorous protein and you’ll be met with dirty looks and mild contempt. He also understands, however, that reviews aren’t always about ordering what you want, and this is one of those times.
One bite in, though, and that scowl is turned around. “It’s really good,” he mumbles through full cheeks. “That eggplant is great.”
He’s right. Marinated in garlic, ginger, tamarind, Chinese five spice and maple syrup, the eggplant is salty, sweet, sour and sticky. Cooked until its skin shrivels and flesh is soft but just holds its shape, it is almost meat-like in its texture, and combined with crunchy carrot and cucumber, a fried egg, dried shallots, rings of red chilli and sprigs of coriander it’s a bloody tasty, simple sandwich ($17) that shines brightly – meat or no meat.
This whole pared-back approach to food is part of the ethos at Golden Times – unfussy fare done well, with a hint of nostalgia.
That latter can be felt in the decor and fit-out.
Previously Mervyn Roy’s cafe, the quaint corner store-style eatery has been given a retro makeover with mustard-hued walls, contrasting teal tones, rustic timber tables, classic metal chairs and artwork in frames that look like they’ve been borrowed from your grandma’s house. There’s a drinks cabinet in the middle filled with the likes of cold-pressed juice, kombucha and artisan sodas, topped with an old radio, dried flowers and amber glasses just to reiterate that bygone era theme.
The menu is a mix of contemporary and classic, with everything from miso avocado on sourdough with sauerkraut to Weet-Bix topped with tinned peaches and cream.
There’s a bacon and egg roll, too, and a nourish bowl exploding with spiced pumpkin, braised chickpeas, house-made cashew cheese, spinach, quinoa, avocado, sauerkraut and toasted pepitas, but it’s the Turkish eggs ($19) that hit our table. Again, this is all about simplicity with two sunny side-up, fried eggs sitting alongside toasted and buttered sourdough from local favourite Burleigh Baker, with a drizzle of chilli oil, a scattering of dill and mint, and a liberal smear of garlic labneh. It’s cleverly uncomplicated and all the better for it.
Diners order at the counter manned by co-owner Luke Andrews, while fellow co-owner Jono Schollum is in the kitchen and his partner and third co-owner Jaye Schollum pumps out the coffees – a smooth but slightly bitter blend from Ground Control roastery just a bean flick away in Tweed Heads. Golden Times is as chill as the trio who owns it and the relaxed vibe almost ensures diners have a “golden time”.
Golden Times
169 Golden Four Dr, Bilinga
Open
Tue-Sun 6.30am-1.30pm
Verdict (out of 5)
Food 3.5
Service 3.5
Ambience 3.5
Value 3.5
Overall 3.5
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