We are the only diners for brunch’: Undiscovered gem that deserves more customers

This quiet suburban eatery is a sister venue to another popular venue. It’s just as great - so where are the customers?

Cheese and potatoes are arguably two of the greatest contributions to the culinary world.

Combine them and often magic happens.

At least it does at Vagus in Alderley, in Brisbane’s north.

This quiet suburban eatery is a sister venue to Samford’s popular The Flying Nun Cafe, and offers a similarly contemporary daytime menu, running from Reuben jaffles and truffled mushrooms on toast to tiramisu waffles, with the addition of plenty of vegetarian and gluten-free options.

But it’s the potato and Persian feta croquettes ($19) that prove that not all heroes wear capes.

Somewhere between a golf ball and a baseball in size, the tanned, deep-fried spheres, of which there are three, are coated in crunchy panko breadcrumbs, their centre a fluffy amalgam of mashed spud and salty, creamy feta eliciting the type of facial theatrics and over-the-top adulation normally only witnessed on television cooking shows.

Vagus cafe in Alderley. Photo David Kelly.

The trio sits on a carrot puree, alongside two runny-centred poached eggs, which become almost unnecessary garnish against these globular delights.

They’re not currently on Vagus’s evening share-style menu, when the spacious, mid-century modern-esque cafe turns into a relaxed neighbourhood wine bar serving up the likes of prawn tacos, Vietnamese bao and lamb cutlets accompanied by Australian and New Zealand wines and craft beer, but they sure could and should be. Another quality version of a classic at Vagus are the corn fritters ($19). Just like my mum used to make, the three patties have been shallow fried until their skin turns crisp, juxtaposing an unctuous interior of corn kernels and creamed corn, paired with a spiced tomato relish, a smudge of mashed avo, and a skewer of fried haloumi cubes.

This is truly tasty fare at great prices.

Also serving up plenty of value for money are the drinks, with frappés, freshly made juices and smoothies all markedly less expensive than at most cafes across town; while a well-made cup of coffee ($4-$4.50) using beans from Brisbane’s Wolff roasters arrives the size of a mug portion at many other places.

The interiors of Vagus cafe in Alderley. Photo: David Kelly.

With great food and good coffee at keen prices, it’s hard to understand why my friend and I are the only diners at Vagus on a Saturday morning for brunch – especially when I have been to many a mediocre cafe that is packed to the rafters.

So if you’re looking for an undiscovered gem, consider Vagus.

Once word gets out about this quality find, it’s sure not to stay quiet for long.

For more reviews visit delicious.com.au/eatout

Alderley Plaza, 6 South Pine Rd, Alderley

3189 8933

vagusbrisbane.com.au

Open Tue 7.30am-3pm; Wed 7.30am-1pm and 5-9pm; Thu 7.30am-3pm and 5-9pm; Fri-Sat 7.30am-3pm and 5pm-late; Sun 7.30am-3pm

Verdict

Food: 4/5

Service: 3/5

Ambience: 3/5

Value: 4/5

Overall: 3.5/5