Vegan cafe that shuns fake meats and makes vegetables the hero

Forget faux meat, this vegan eatery is all about getting back to basics with tasty results.

The one thing I’ve never understood about so many vegan eateries is their obsession with trying to recreate meat in their dishes rather than heroing the actual vegetables.

From “furkey”, aka fake turkey, to imitation chicken or lookalike lamb, so many menus substitute with horrendously over-processed “meats” that taste like the inside of a shoe and are packed with more fillers than a Gold Coast injectables clinic. Even worse, so many of the ingredients that go into these faux proteins are usually shipped in from all around the world, adding up to thousands of food miles and tonnes of excess pollution contradicting one of the major philosophies of veganism, which is protecting the planet.

Laneway dining at Pancha Cafe, Hamilton. Picture: David Kelly

Thankfully you’ll find almost none of these mock meats at plant-based cafe Pancha in Hamilton, in Brisbane’s inner north. Instead, it’s all about celebrating the best of local, ethical produce, with much of it grown on their family farm in the Southern Downs, with any waste from the eatery, along with their coffee grounds, then returned to the farm as compost.

The inside dining space at Pancha Cafe. Picture: David Kelly

And it’s this all-natural approach that seems to be working for diners, especially on weekends, with crowds filling the cosy, olive-hued cafe trimmed with artificial and real plants, and accents of exposed brick, with tables and chairs spilling into a neighbouring laneway.

Some of that real food includes the likes of an egg-free shakshuka at breakfast, plus mushrooms on toast, acai bowls, croffles and more; while at lunch it could be anything from a kimchi burrito or spring rolls to a massaman curry or truffle miso pasta.

Pancha’s pad thai. Picture: David Kelly

Tempeh and tofu work as the main proteins at Pancha and you’ll find them tossed through a gluten-free pad thai ($25) with round rice noodles instead of the typical flat versions lightly lacquered in a subtle tamarind sauce and entwined with bean sprouts, carrot and shiitake mushrooms. This is far from your regular Thai takeaway incarnation, with the sugar kept to a minimum and the flavours toned right so you can finish the generous portion without feeling sick.

Spring rolls at Pancha Cafe. Picture: David Kelly

Even more impressive, though, are the vegan pancakes ($20). While many plant-based versions can often be a trainwreck without the inclusion of traditional dairy and egg, these are feathery light, packed with flavour from flax seed, cinnamon and nutmeg, and delicious when soaked in the accompanying berry coulis and layered with the oozy caramelised lady finger bananas, fresh berries and lashings of coconut cream.

Pancha pancakes. Picture: David Kelly

Fresh juices and smoothies are also vegan, with coconut water and coconut yoghurt used for the likes of a creamy, thick mango lassi; but diners can order their coffee, using a Sacred Grounds organic blend, with regular cow’s milk, ensuring an almost sweet, silky finish. There is an abundance of other flavoured lattes available, too, including beetroot, turmeric and spicy ginger versions, or guests can have house sodas packed with multiple fruits.

There are two vegan house wines also available – a white and a red; plus a Newstead Brewing beer; and four signature cocktails, which are a steal at only $15 and almost too pretty to drink with the likes of butterfly pea staining them a rainbow of colours.

The kimchi burrito. Picture: David Kelly

If you’re like most Australians who fail to eat their recommended daily intake of vegetables, perhaps you need a little Pancha in your life, where the veg is celebrated and you can’t help but admire its beauty.

Pancho Cafe

6/33 Racecourse Rd, Hamilton

3268 3638

pancha.com.au

Open daily 7am-3pm

Verdict – Scores out of 5

Food 3.5

Service 3

Ambience 3.5

Value 3.5

Overall 3.5