‘Tiny shop on the first floor’: Hidden Sunnybank gem scores a near perfect food review

The colourful cafe on Brisbane’s southside delivers a terrific taste that has everyone coming back for more.

Kusuka Corner, Sunnybank (level 1 Market Square). Picture: David Kelly

Search “Indonesian cafes and restaurants in Brisbane” in Google and there are just four results.

Considering the love affair Australians – and particularly Queenslanders – have with Bali, it seems a shockingly low figure. Sure, there are a number of eateries around town serving a few Indonesian dishes mixed in with their pan-Asian offering, but it appears a missed opportunity not to have more venues strictly dedicated to the cuisine.

Raising the number to five, however, is Sunnybank cafe Kusuka Corner in the city’s south. Owners Liz and Mario had an eatery of the same name in Sydney, but after moving to Brisbane to be closer to family, they decided to bring the popular cafe with them.

Residing in a tiny shop on the first floor of the Market Square Shopping Centre, just near the carpark, the colourful cafe offers a contemporary take on Indo cuisine.

Guests can sit at small tables in the mall’s corridor, or inside the elegant emerald, gold and white main dining room with a tan banquette along one wall and three tables for two parallel.

Embedded in tiles on the venue’s threshold is the saying: “You are loved” and that’s just how the couple want diners to feel.

The Nasi Goreng with schnitzel at Kusuka Corner, Sunnybank. Picture: David Kelly

And it seems to be working.

While the cafe may be modern, the hospitality is old-school, from the warm welcome as soon as customers approach to the high level of expertise and knowledge about dishes, and the incredible little touches. For example, my brunch date dropped a spoon on the ground, and within seconds Liz was at the table with fresh cutlery – simply from hearing the metal hit the floor. It’s service like this that’s normally only found at the finest of fine dining restaurants. It may be why their Sydney store became a mecca for celebrities, such as Simu Liu from Marvel film Shang-Chi and the Legend of the Ten Rings, and why the Sunnybank operation has been given the tick of approval from the Consulate-General of Indonesia.

Well, that and the food.

The dishes are inspired by Liz’s Indonesian family and gathering around the table. There’s “Papa’s congee” ($15.90) – a thick, textured rice porridge with chicken mince, soy and toppings – or “Hometown” ($17.90) – an Indonesian handmade meatball soup served with white rice, crackers and condiments.

The rissoles at Kusuka Corner, Sunnybank. Picture: David Kelly

But the venue’s signature is perhaps Indonesia’s national dish: nasi goreng. The Kusuka Corner version comes in three varieties: one with fried chicken drumettes ($17.90) a vegetarian version ($17.50) and, our pick, the rendition with a panko-crumbed chicken schnitzel ($21.90).

This is one dish that hits you square in the face with flavour. From the fried rice that is dark and complex with kecap manis and shrimp paste, to the lightly pickled carrot and cucumber that provides refreshment against the golden fried chicken, to the kerupuk crackers that add snap and extra texture, it’s a delight.

Another of the cafe’s recommendations is their “risoles” ($13.90) – but don’t expect anything like what your mum used to make with gravy or that you see in the meat section at Coles. These bad boys are like the love child of a Chiko Roll and a fancy French croquette, with wagyu beef pastrami and mashed boiled egg enveloped by pastry and crumbed and fried.

My date loves them plain but, for me, the accompanying green chilli sambal with its freshness and acidity from lime is what makes this dish really come alive.

Both dishes are well suited to a traditional Indonesian kopi susu coffee, that is filtered several times to deliver a milder, clearer coffee that is then mixed with condensed milk. For strong coffee lovers, however, there is Toby’s Estate on pour, as well as a range of stunning-looking drinks from a pink latte with notes of watermelon and strawberry to the “Disco Princess” – a colour-changing mango, lemonade mocktail punch. There’s also the “Blackforest” milkshake based on the classic cake, topped with a cherry and cream, and it tastes just like you’re drinking the chocolate sponge.

Kusuka Corner is a charming little eatery that ticks all the boxes and flies the flag proudly for Indonesia.

KUSUKA CORNER
Shop 3, Level 1, 341 Mains Rd, Market Square, Sunnybank

3151 0723

kusukaconrer.au

Open
Mon-Wed 8am-4pm; Thu-Sat 8.30am-9pm; and Sun midday-9pm

Verdict

Food
4.5 stars

Service

5 stars

Ambience

3 stars

Value

4.5 stars

Overall

4.5/5 stars

delicious.com.au/eatout