The James St eatery that sparked a bidding war

A restaurant site in Fortitude Valley’s most sought-after street has been the subject of a major fight among some of Brisbane’s biggest hospitality operators.

Anooska Tucker-Evans

3 min read

June 13, 2024 - 5:00AM

QWeekend

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Rumour has it that when the site of former Spoon Deli Cafe on Fortitude Valley’s celebrated James St came up for rent last year after 20 years, it sparked an all-out bidding war among some of Brisbane’s top restaurateurs.

With James St considered somewhat of a licence to print money among many in the hospitality industry, word is that a handful of the city’s most prolific operators – particularly those involved in the steak game – were fighting it out for the tenancy next to The Standard Market Company.

The site of the old Spoon Deli Cafe in Fortitude Valley has been transformed into Emme. Picture: David Kelly

Winning the rental rivalry was first-time restaurateur and talented cook Thomas Tze Lian and business partner Sultan Amasheh.

While Tze Lian may be new to the ownership game, his credentials are strong, having spent years at wildly popular Greek taverna Hellenika – a zucchini chip toss away, and Greca at Howard Smith Wharves.

The outside dining area and coffee stand at Emme. Picture: David Kelly

Wanting to go out on his own and “do something for me”, Tze Lian developed Emme (pronounced Em) – an all-day eatery taking inspiration from his background in Greek fare and Amasheh’s Moroccan and Jordanian heritage, as well as influences from other regions of the Mediterranean, Middle East and North Africa. The result is an offering running from breakfast through lunch to dinner, which reads as simple and contemporary, but disguises prowess, technique and skill.

The internal dining room at Emme, James St, Fortitude Valley. Picture: David Kelly

Much of that skill comes in mastering the stunning 1.4m wood-fired grill and oven that forms the centrepiece of the open kitchen and elegantly minimal restaurant.

The brigade of laid-back and relaxed chefs, led by Tze Lian and featuring talented cook Finn Burgess (ex-Essa, Fortitude Valley, and Gauge, South Brisbane), provide a level of theatre in the cosy yet open 44-seat main dining room, as they master the flames for everything from grilled baby squid to barbecued broccoli and chicken.

All three dishes – alongside six more plates – are on the great value set menu for just $89pp, but we decide to freestyle things.

First up is the wood-fired pita ($10). Like a pillow of charry, puffy pizza dough, it’s soft with its crevasses pooling with olive oil and a dusting of seven-spiced salt. It’s enough to send my guest into raptures, especially when dipped into the tiny bowl of garlic labneh that’s offered as an extra.

The wood-fired pita at Emme. Picture: David Kelly

He continues gushing over the grilled baby squid ($32), which is perhaps inspired by a yam pra-muek Thai salad. Loaded with mint, coriander and charred cubes of pineapple, it’s a salty, sweet, sour tangle of tender squid with a dressing good enough to drink.

Swordfish koftas are next to hit the table ($22) and while I applaud the concept, perhaps a fattier/oilier fish would be better suited, with the meatballs of the sea desperate for the moisture of the accompanying saffron yoghurt.

Emme’s grilled baby squid and pineapple salad. Picture: David Kelly

There’s no faulting the pipis ($28), however, which arrive swimming in a tomato-infused harissa butter that adds complexity rather than heat and is well and truly worth getting a little messy for. My only wish is that I had more of that pita to soak up every last millilitre.

For steak fans there’s a 250g 3+ wagyu striploin, but for those after something slightly smaller that delivers just as big a flavour punch, there are the wagyu tail skewers. The kiss of the fire brings an unbeatable char and caramelisation to the fatty squares of beef that have been left just pink in the centre.

The wagyu tail skewers with native spice and spring onion salsa. Picture: David Kelly

They would, no doubt, go well with one of the bold reds from the enticingly diverse and global wine list, with glasses from just $13. But if you’re a cocktail or mocktail fan, the sweet-sour Burning Man with rum, peach liqueur, pineapple, lime and sugar is a stellar choice, as is the non-alcoholic house iced tea.

With charming, caring staff, I’m already planning a visit for breakfast – sinking into the white banquettes outside and tucking into crab and eggs on sourdough, pickled eggplant with walnuts and labneh or French toast with date caramel, whipped yoghurt and fruit.