The Brisbane restaurant serving up a must-eat lamb dish

This Brisbane Mexican eatery is full of fun and frivolity and also just happens to have the best lamb dish I’ve had all year, writes Anooska Tucker-Evans

A joyous racket of tequila-filled cocktail shakers, base-heavy house beats and diners gleefully letting their hair down echoes around the cactus-strewn, peach-accented room.

Down what Brisbanites call “the good end” of Brunswick St in Fortitude Valley, sits Baja Modern Mexican – an intimate Cali-Mex inspired restaurant where fun, frivolity and fabulous food are the order of the day.

The dining room at Baja Modern Mexican in Fortitude Valley

The work of hospitality veteran Daniel Quinn, Baja opened three years ago and continues to go from strength to strength, with its current offering arguably its best yet.

Serving a contemporary – some may say “cheffy” – take on the lighter, healthier Californian-Mexican fare, the tight menu is designed to share, starting with snacks like guacamole and aguachile, before moving on to five types of tacos and three large, shareable proteins. But before we get on to that, special attention must be paid to the drinks list.

The restaurant takes its mezcal and tequila seriously with aged, unaged and flavoured varieties of both filling up the green-tiled back bar. For true enthusiasts, they’re all available by the glass and worth working through with some guidance from the knowledgeable bar staff.

For the majority of diners, however, they’re probably most enjoyed in one of the venue’s fantastic cocktails.

There are the classics like a brilliantly sour, ice-cold Tommys margarita that is impossible to stop at just one, plus plenty of fun house mixes like a “coco loco” with tequila, coconut, jalapeno and lime, or the perfectly balanced “sunset sangria” made with biodynamic white wine.

And on the topic of wine, an interesting, out-of-the-ordinary vino list with plenty of natural and biodynamic drops from small producers is also in play, as well as Mexican and local beers, and even their own house pale ale.

Pick your poison and then start with an excellent individual prawn tostada ($9 each).

Crunchy, fried school prawns and zingy ceviche-style prawns are entwined on a bubbly, fried tortilla with a smudge of pureed avocado, dollop of crema and ribbons of magenta-hued pickled onion, showcasing the imagination and expert palate of the chef.

Those same corn tortillas are then served soft for the tacos, with options like mushroom, chicken and beef available.

The fish tacos ($22 for two) change with what’s best from the fishmonger that day and on our visit are flathead, battered and fried, topping guacamole, red cabbage slaw and a chilli-tinged aioli that brings just the right level of heat.

Stealing the accolade for possibly the best lamb dish I’ve had all year though is the shoulder ($48) served with fried brussels sprouts and a tomato and onion salsa. Slow-cooked and flame-licked, the Tasmanian sheep is charry around the edges with the flesh boasting all the sweetness of a grandmother’s hug.

Eat it on its own or turn it into a Mexican roast with a side of shatteringly crisp, fried potatoes ($13).

Dessert is also a must, with Baja’s version of a tres leche cake ($14) plate-licking good, with the moist sponge smothered in a thick caramel cream and drippings of mezcal caramel for extra depth of flavour under a snowstorm of aerated meringue pieces.

Combining terrific food, smashable drinks and smiley service, Baja brings the fiesta.

BAJA MODERN MEXICAN

211 Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley

3625 0069

bajamodernmexican.
com

Open Tue-Thu 5pm-late, Fri noon-3pm, 5pm-late; Sat 5pm-late

Must-eat dish

Prawn tostada

Verdict – Scores out of 5

Food 4

Service 4

Ambience 3.5

Value 4

Overall 4