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The bizarre must-try taco at Brisbane’s hottest new Mexican restaurant

Ten types of margaritas and tacos with out-of-the-ordinary fillings are on the menu at this taqueria that has queues out the door.

Cartel Del Taco in New Farm. Picture: Nelson Zambrano
Cartel Del Taco in New Farm. Picture: Nelson Zambrano

‘This feels like we’re back in Mexico,” says my dinner date as we walk into the freshly opened Cartel del Taco in Brisbane’s New Farm.

The work of Marco Ramirez and Erick Martinez, the venue is a sister to their Hawthorne eatery of the same name, which has been a roaring success since it opened in 2022.

While both venues boast the same red and white tiles, pops of neon and taqueria-style metal chairs and seats, the New Farm venture feels truly authentic, like it was ripped straight from the streets of Mexico City with its stained polished concrete floors, traditional music blaring and joyful hubbub of diners.

The vibrant dining room at Cartel Del Taco in New Farm. Picture: Nelson Zambrano
The vibrant dining room at Cartel Del Taco in New Farm. Picture: Nelson Zambrano

We’re seated at the cocktail bar on stools that are more designed for a quick feed and flee, rather than a long, leisurely experience, watching the team of bartenders cranking out margaritas at a cracking pace.

Pescadillas at Cartel Del Taco in New Farm. Picture: Nelson Zambrano
Pescadillas at Cartel Del Taco in New Farm. Picture: Nelson Zambrano

There are 10 house margs – all offering a unique spin on the classic tequila favourite, as well as more traditional options, including my excellent spicy version with a hint of Tabasco.

Then there’s a lengthy list of Mexican beers – most excitingly their own house lager, plus five wines, and fresh drinks, such as the Mexican favourite horchata, made with rice water and cinnamon.

The latter is a treasured choice of my date, who downs the contents of a tall glass before I can say “taco”.

But before I talk about tacos, there are the starters and seafood bar options to consider.

Think chicken tostadas, beef empanadas, elote, oysters with the option of three
dressings, and a seafood tower with king fish, scallops, octopus, prawns, salsa, and corn chips designed for two for the bargain price of just $60.

We are, however, here for those tacos, of which you’ll find eight varieties, filled with everything from refried beans or marinated chicken to grilled rib fillet or brisket.

The fish tacos at Cartel Del Taco in New Farm. Picture: Nelson Zambrano
The fish tacos at Cartel Del Taco in New Farm. Picture: Nelson Zambrano

The fish tacos ($22) are our choice and are every bit as good as what you’ll find anywhere in Mexico, featuring lightly battered fillets of snapper, crowned with chipotle mayonnaise, pickled slaw, guacamole, pico de gallo and a spicy red sauce.

But my guest won’t stop raving about the “chef’s special” taco, starring wood-fired octopus and pineapple, with avocado and salsa verde.

“The pineapple on it is just so good,” he enthuses.

The octopus taco at Cartel Del Taco in New Farm. Picture: Nelson Zambrano
The octopus taco at Cartel Del Taco in New Farm. Picture: Nelson Zambrano

Gorditas are a common street food across parts of Mexico that are rarely seen in Queensland, and the restaurant offers a version of the corn meal sandwiches filled with confit pork ($24).

It’s a winner, with the thick, almost-patty-like tortillas moist, yet fluffy, while the tender meat drips in its own drinkable juices, making it, dare I say, better than many I’ve eaten throughout Mexico.

The confit pork gordita at Cartel Del Taco in New Farm. Picture: Nelson Zambrano
The confit pork gordita at Cartel Del Taco in New Farm. Picture: Nelson Zambrano

There is also a strong selection of main meals, moving from lamb shanks to king prawn pasta and a 1.2kg tomahawk.

Our 300g rib fillet ($48) – cooked perfectly medium-rare – comes with two plain cheese quesadillas and sides of guacamole and salsa roja, and boasts that deeply satisfying char that only comes from a parrilla grill.

For dessert, you’ll find three options – a mango sorbet, a flan and a caramel lava cake, but good luck fitting them in with the meals generously sized.

Service is friendly and fast-paced, with staff knowledgeable, but with a focus on efficiency.

And as we’re in a rush to make the movies after our visit, it works perfectly.

For a true taste of Mexico City without the $2000+ airfare, Cartel del Taco delivers.

One of the signature sandwiches at Cartel Del Taco in New Farm. Picture: Nelson Zambrano
One of the signature sandwiches at Cartel Del Taco in New Farm. Picture: Nelson Zambrano

Cartel Del Taco New Farm

2/779 Merthyr Rd, New Farm

3544 6739

carteldeltaco.com.au

Open

Wed-Sun dinner from 5pm

Must eat

Fish tacos

Verdict

Food 4

Service 3.5

Ambience 4

Value 4

Overall 4

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Original URL: https://www.couriermail.com.au/lifestyle/qweekend/the-bizarre-musttry-taco-at-brisbanes-hottest-new-mexican-restaurant/news-story/37d6c27edadfe0da888436dbb82e4db7