The $12 controversial dish sure to blow your brains out

High end Japanese restaurant Sokyo has opened at the new Star at Queen’s Wharf serving up a dish that’s sure to have people talking.

As we pass the luxury European cars parked out front and head into the glistening lobby of Brisbane City’s new Star hotel and casino at Queen’s Wharf, sparkling with freshly polished stone floors, the echo of revelling punters is almost deafening.

While the $3.6bn precinct may have opened under an unfortunate cloud of controversy, with news of Star Entertainment’s financial troubles and unfinished facilities, reports have seemingly done little to dampen punters’ spirits.

The omakase counter at Sokyo, Brisbane.

There’s a black tie function about to begin in one of the venue’s event spaces, but guests are warming up with a drink at the lobby bar first, creating quite the racket. While next door, freshly launched Japanese restaurant Sokyo – a sister venue to their Sydney operation of the same name – is heaving with diners.

At the helm is executive chef Alex Yu, best known for his wildly successful Melbourne omakase experience at Yugen in South Yarra, which would book out in under 10 minutes.

The dining room at Sokyo, Brisbane.

A nigiri platter at Sokyo, Brisbane.

As we’re led to our table down the end of the long, narrow space we pass walls of glass offering views over the Riverside Expressway to the Wheel of Brisbane and Griffith University at South Bank. It’s quite the dramatic fit-out with dark carpets flanking an oak-hued, timber catwalk of sorts down the centre, elegant
L-shaped booths, planters filled with greenery, and a brightly lit omakase bar at the end opposite more casual-style seating.

The restaurant becomes quieter the deeper you walk in, so if you’re after a more romantic experience rather than a fun, lively night with friends, ask for a table towards the rear.

Just like the fit-out, the menu is long and varied, with Australian produce combined with classic Japanese techniques in a modern manner. There are starters like a 24-piece sashimi platter, alongside tempura and robata dishes; a section entitled “essential” with four protein options, salads and vegetables, and nigiri, sushi rolls and sashimi.

The sashimi platter at Sokyo, Brisbane.

Just two dishes from the Sydney menu have made the cut here: crispy spicy tuna ($28) and kingfish miso ceviche ($24). Both considered signatures, and with good reason, the first nailing the golden crust of the rice and signature chew; while the second provides a beautiful balance of lime and miso in the dressing, with tiny, fried potato straws adding crunch. There’s no denying the quality or freshness of the produce, whether in the tuna sashimi ($7 a slice) or the salmon belly aburi nigiri ($28 for four), but it certainly comes at a cost with portions kept small and precise.

The crispy tuna rice at Sokyo, Brisbane.

That precision is highly appreciated, however, with the cookery of the Margra lamb loin ($34) prepared on the robata, and Wollemi duck breast ($58). Both are served perfectly pink, retaining all their flavour and moisture, with the crisp, thin skin and sizeable layer of fat on the duck a true delight; likewise the tart umeboshi gel accompanying the lamb.

Tempura fiends will be singing the praises of the ethereally light flour mix coating the squid ($24), with batter fine and crisp.

The most controversial dish goes to the spicy edamame ($12). Coated in soy, a Japanese seven spice mix known as shichimi and a blanket of dancing katsuobushi, they’re addictive and pleasantly hot, until you lick your fingers and are overcome by a sinus-clearing, tongue-tingling inferno.

The spicy edamame at Sokyo, Brisbane.

The drinks list covers signature Japanese-leaning cocktails and mocktails, sake, umeshu, Japanese whisky, and wines from around the world.

There are four dessert options, channelling popular Japanese flavours but with a contemporary twist, say strawberry matcha tiramisu, or white sesame ice cream and mousse with yuzu chocolate; but having blown the budget, we leave the sweet stuff for next time.

While Google reviews show Sokyo may have experienced some of the same teething issues that affected the entire precinct’s launch, by my visit, it seems to have found its feet.

Sokyo

The Star, William St, Brisbane City

1800 888 899

star.com.au

Must try dish

Kingfish miso ceviche

Verdict

Food 4

Service 4

Ambience 4

Value 3

Overall 4