Suburban roots evident in new upmarket CBD Japanese

The chef behind this new CBD eatery featuring river views has a huge following thanks to his suburban eateries. But can he ‘elevate’ the experience to high-end dining?

Tony Cheng has been a chef for more than 20 years and boasts a string of suburban Brisbane eateries to his name, including the hugely popular Hana Zushi in Sunnybank.

But after decades of nailing bites in the ’burbs, this year he and wife Penny decided it was time to level up and launch an elevated dining experience in the heart of the CBD.

Taking over the long-time-vacant site of defunct Indian Heritij in the Brisbane Quarter development, below the W hotel, is Tenya Japanese Restaurant & Bar.

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A sprawling 1000sq m tenancy with spectacular views across the Brisbane River to South Bank from a commodious balcony, the space has been dressed to impressed.

A glowing, curved bar flush with more than 85 varieties of Japanese whisky and sake is what draws diners in, leading into the arched main space, framed by floor-to-ceiling windows and replete with rich wood tones, contemporary comfortable furniture and dramatic stone elements. Three semi-private dining areas shielded by transparent screens are set for groups, there’s also a VIP room for functions, while closed off from view is a special kaiseki and omakase room where a chef serves a multi-course feast in front of customers.

It’s a no-expenses-spared design only let down by out-of-place, flimsy paper napkins – the kind you find at a Bunnings sausage sizzle, and cheap chopsticks like those used at a sushi train.

The signs of suburban roots are also evident in the menu – a bound folder of clear plastic sleeves, where the pages stick together like at your favourite cheap and cheerful Chinese restaurant. They’re little things, but they make a big difference when pushing for an elevated experience.

At lunch there are three and five-course set menus, plus a range of donburi and ramen; while dinner presents a lengthy list of Japanese favourites from tofu agedashi and tempura to yakimono and wagyu, alongside their specialty sushi and sashimi.

The salmon tartare ($21) with diced avocado and cucumber and a miso yuzu dressing is evidence of the restaurant’s commitment to quality fish, with catches delivered daily to ensure ultimate freshness.

That same strong fishmonger relationship that has made the Chengs’ suburban eateries a success is again found in the quality of the signature sashimi. Unfortunately, the listed King George whiting and blue fin is unavailable during our visit, but the kingfish ($25 for five pieces) is a welcome option – thickly cut and melt in the mouth. Just be warned, the accompanying wasabi may just blow your brains out. The chargrilled whole squid ($30) and Japanese fried chicken nuggets sushi roll ($20) are both fine without being outstanding, but what is truly memorable is the tempura soft shell crab ($21). Juicy, meaty, top-notch crustacean is encrusted with the crispest of batters, with a spicy mayo the perfect accompaniment.

The wine list is a quirky global mix of cheap and cheerful and ultra high end; there’s a sufficient selection of Japanese and Aussie craft beer; but the real stars are the sake and the whisky and the cocktails they are blended into. For something seafood appropriate, try the sake sour ($19).

Having only opened last month and service staff still finding their feet, Tenya is off to a solid start. No doubt with time and a little finesse, it can graduate into the elevated restaurant the Chengs hoped for.

TENYA JAPANESE RESTAURANT & BAR

Brisbane Quarter, Level 2, 300 George St, Brisbane City

3706 3944

tenyabrisbane.net.au

Open Daily 11.30am-midnight

Must eat dish

Tempura soft shell crab

VERDICT - Scores out of 5

Food 3

Ambience 4

Service 3

Value 4

Overall 3.5