Review: The Hervey Bay Esplanade restaurant everyone’s talking about

This small town restaurant has become the name on locals’ lips, offering dressed down comfort food and boozy beverages, writes Anooska Tucker-Evans.

ASK any local where you should eat in Hervey Bay and without taking a breath, they answer, “Coast”.

The relaxed restaurant with a slightly up-market skew sits along the popular Esplanade, boasting water views from its breezy, timber deck, which extends off a commodious, softly draped dining room girt by dark, leather banquette seating.

On a warm evening the veranda is the place to be. Our visit comes with a side of entertainment as some rather merry patrons embrace the holiday spirit – and the spirit of rum – a little too enthusiastically at the front bar, before being gently ushered into a cab just as the sun goes down.

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Perhaps it is this pie-eyed situation that is distracting the waitstaff, with service friendly yet somewhat erratic and absent-minded as three staff come to take our order after we have already placed it.

The main dining room at Coast in Hervey Bay. Picture: John Wilson

On the topic of tipples, though, a quick glance at the drinks list and it’s easy to see how patrons could imbibe to the point of expulsion.

The offering is a smart and varied one, running from a generous selection of Queensland craft brews to two pages of gin and tonic adaptations, bespoke cocktails and a global wine list of affordable quaffers (the by-the-glass list is all under $11.50). Just beware of the Coast Old Fashioned – the classic whisky cocktail customised with apricot and honey that could easily see you, too, escorted out after knocking back a couple.

Designed to sponge up the alcohol is the share-style menu.

Described on the website as “fine food dressed down for comfort”, it takes on European and Asian influences with local scallops accompanied by confit garlic butter and pancetta, sitting alongside the likes of Thai roasted chicken, beetroot risotto, and kangaroo tataki.

Whole fried school prawns ($12) are a solid version of the old school snacking favourite; while tortellini filled with prawns caught just a net toss away near Fraser Island ($26) offers a sophisticated touch – the slippery pasta wading in an aromatic, Asian-leaning orange broth.

The gnocchi with smoked mackerel, cauliflower, brussels sprouts, ricotta and almonds at Coast. Picture: John Wilson

Less successful is the potato gnocchi ($28) – the result of a fertile imagination but with little cohesion as the various elements of flaked smoked mackerel, cauliflower, charred and shredded brussels sprouts, piped ricotta and almonds seemingly fighting each other.

More composed, however, is the beef rib (400g $28 /800g $54) which has been braised in a star anise, cinnamon and soy-infused master stock until it cleaves away from the bone.

It would be smart to order it with a papaya and coconut salad ($12) from the long list of sides to add brightness, but we are saving room for dessert.

There are five sweet options – plus a cheese board – available, transcending from the curious avocado and matcha cheesecake to a classic affogato, but it’s the signature pud: the Coast banana split, which lures us in.

The signature Coast banana split dessert. Picture: John Wilson

Available as a half serve for $12 or a shareable version for $20, it is a refined and finessed interpretation of the milk bar classic.

It boasts subtly flavoured banana ice cream, thick milk chocolate mousse, fresh banana, a sweet peanut cream and caramelised nuggets of peanuts and popcorn for texture. It’s the kind of dessert requiring a dentist appointment or gym session the next day.

Coast is a solid, small town restaurant that, after almost a decade in operation, has clearly found its groove, impressing locals and ensuring its name remains firmly planted on their lips.

COAST

Food

3/5 stars

Ambience

3.5/5 stars

Service

3/5 stars

Value

3/5 stars

MUST TRY

Fraser Island prawn tortellini

469 Esplanade, Hervey Bay; [phone]; coastherveybay.com.au

Tue-Wed 5pm-late
Thu-Sun 11.30am-late