Review of new eatery Southside in Fish Lane

What was a formerly an inner-city eyesore has been transformed into one of Brisbane’s most stylish restaurants with a sophisticated pan-Asian menu to match.

IT WAS an eyesore. Concrete-heavy, graffitied and blusterous.

The rail overpass tracking across South Brisbane’s burgeoning Fish Lane was like a mole on a supermodel’s face – part of its DNA and interesting in its own way, but something you couldn’t help but wonder if it would look better without. Not anymore.

The downstairs dining space at Southside, South Brisbane.

Acclaimed Brisbane architects Richards + Spence and developers Aria Property Group have transformed the once-derelict blot on the landscape into what feels like a subterranean oasis – lush with palms, cycads and ferns.

Think Jurassic Park without any of the scary dinosaurs.

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Embedding itself into this new industrial jungle is Southside – a casual but elegant pan-Asian eatery from the team that brought us Rick Shores on the Gold Coast and Brisbane’s now-defunct Little Valley.

With an outdoor booking, diners can sit among the lush rainforest surrounds only reminded they’re in the city by the shudder of a train passing overhead.

The downstairs dining space at Southside, South Brisbane.

The vibe continues inside with architects O.G.E Group designing a stunning multi-level space of soaring ceilings, glass and concrete curves.

The terracotta-hued downstairs opens onto the jungle outside through full-length vertically folding windows, which eliminate almost all train noise when closed.

While upstairs boasts a small bar and another dining space flanked by a captivating arched window (there’s also another level with a private dining room for about 20).

Hanging plants across both main floors reinforce the idea that you could perhaps be lost among the temples of the Myanmar jungle.

The outdoor dining space at Southside, South Brisbane.

Playing into the exotic location is the food.

After the owners made the heartbreaking decision in October last year to close contemporary Chinese restaurant Little Valley, they have transported a handful of their signature dishes across to Southside, while broadening the menu to incorporate influences from across East Asia, but also giving them a modern, Australian spin.

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Chef Benny Lam of Brisbane’s beloved Enjoy Inn Chinese restaurants is in charge of the dim sum, creating perfectly executed bites such as XO pork xiao long bao ($17) that explode with soupy goodness in the mouth.

Beef short rib at Southside restaurant in South Brisbane.

While head chef Simon Hanmer has created an interesting array of share plates such as a salt and pepper cuttlefish sandwich with sriracha, siu yuk pork belly with native plum and Singapore chilli-style king prawns, as well as handmade noodle dishes like char kway teo with Moreton Bay bug.

The master stock duck with house noodles ($36) is like Asia’s answer to duck ragu, with fettuccine-sized noodles woven throughout chunks of achingly tender meat.

But unlike ragu, the soy-hued sauce is delicate and tempered, with notes of star anise and cinnamon.

Xin Jiang lamb kebab with roti bread at Southside restaurant in South Brisbane.

The traditionally Chinese dish of Xinjiang lamb ($28) is given a Middle Eastern twist with the cumin and pepper-crusted meat served alongside roti-style flat bread, smoked yoghurt and pickled cucumber to be eaten like a wrap. It’s a clever fusion that really works.

While from the big plates comes a modern take on the classic beef and black bean ($50) with a fatty slab of short rib served blushing pink alongside a mash of salty, fermented, umami-packed black beans, great with a side of steamed gai lan tossed in oyster sauce, and a glass of La Ficelle Saint Pourcain gamay from the eclectic wine list heroing classic expressions from the world’s most popular wine regions.

Master stock duck with house noodles at Southside restaurant in South Brisbane.

The menu is long and varied so consider choosing the “feed me banquet” if you come with a group of four or more to give you a true taste of the offering.

Or simply go your own way, making sure to finish with a feather-light pineapple bun ($6) oozing with goey, sweet custard.

With casual and friendly staff ensuring things run smoothly, Southside is a restaurant you’ll be booking into for everything from a midweek date night to a fun birthday bash.

Custard and pineapple buns at Southside restaurant in South Brisbane.

SOUTHSIDE

Fish Lane Town Square 63 Melbourne Street, South Brisbane

southside-restaurant.com.au

3067 7269

Open Tues-Thu 5.30pm-late, Fri-Sun noon-late

VERDICT

Food 3.5

Ambience 4.5

Service 3.5

Value 3.5

Overall 3.5