Restaurant or uber flashy food court? New Mexican eatery causes confusion

A recently opened waterfront cantina has left customers confused by its odd location.

Is it a restaurant or is it an eatery in an uber flashy food court? It’s hard to tell with Isla Cantina at waterfront retail and dining precinct Capri on Via Roma at Surfers Paradise on the Gold Coast.

The shopping centre features clothing stores, a bottle shop, hairdresser, nail salon and a sprawling Harris Farm supermarket that seems to merge into a variety of cafes and restaurants – some casual, some grab-and-go and some more serious. Deciphering where one venue begins and one ends is even more complicated at Isla Cantina with a pathway through the middle of the restaurant for shoppers to get groceries.

Isla Cantina at the Isle of Capri on the Gold Coast.

In fact, I actually walk into the venue and out the other side without even knowing it after entering the precinct from a side street.

It must be quite the nightmare for waitstaff as they try to juggle plates from the kitchen past those pushing unruly shopping trolleys.

What the restaurant sacrifices in layout though, it makes up for with its tranquil waterfront view from its perch above a marina in a pocket of the Nerang River. Guests can even arrive by boat, moor out front, then chill on the sunshine-dappled deck in rattan furniture and low lounges. There’s an inside dining space too with a nautical meets Mexican desert vibe that’s attractive and well executed, but a little dark and struggles to compete with the pull of the waterfront, which plays into the restaurant’s cuisine – Mexican fare with a Californian twist.

The internal dining space at Isla Cantina at the Isle of Capri on the Gold Coast.

What does that mean exactly? Well, it means contemporary share plates from corn and Oaxaca cheese croquettes or watermelon carpaccio to a quartet of tacos and a salad, plus large options like adobo barbecue chicken or slow-roasted lamb. Diners can also choose from one of two banquets for either $50 or $79 per head if ordering a la carte is too troublesome.

Kingfish ceviche is almost rivalling the lamington as Australia’s national dish at restaurants at the moment, and Isla Cantina’s version ($26) is a relatively generous one with a chunky dice of the Hiramasa fish coated in a “tiger’s milk” dressing of fish stock and lime juice. There are slivers of plantain chips on top for scooping, which also add great crunch, the dressing just needs a little more sharpness and bite to really make it memorable.

A mix of small plates and guacamole at Isla Cantina at the Isle of Capri on the Gold Coast.

By contrast is the Isla “Cali” chopped salad ($18) that delivers an abundance of vinegary delight among the soaked leaves, wafer-thin radish and slightly under-ripe avocado. You can have it plain or opt for adding cured Tassie salmon or adobo chicken (both $8 extra), the latter more rich and layered from the chilli paste marinade than spicy.

Also relatively tame despite the mention of chipotle and jalapeño in its description is the Mexican spin on meatballs ($18) using wagyu. While the spherical quartet may be mild, they’re well flavoured; as is the barbecue black Angus flank steak with a bone marrow butter ($28), though a little on the chewy side.

The lamb barbacoa at Isla Cantina at the Isle of Capri on the Gold Coast.

For two guests, the large plates are probably too large – better for three to four, leaving the tacos best for satiety. There’s a vegan-friendly jackfruit option, pulled pork, more of that adobo chicken and a fried fish incarnation coated in breadcrumbs ($19) with pickled onion, piped avocado and a chipotle aioli ensuring a solid version of another ubiquitous dish.

Drinks include cocktails such as an alcoholic Mexican iced chocolate, sangria, a passionfruit-spiked pisco sour, plus five margaritas. The wine list is concise but well selected for the food with an Argentinian malbec alongside drops from Chile and California, plus plenty from Australia and Europe.

Fish tacos at Isla Cantina at the Isle of Capri on the Gold Coast.

Isla Cantina is owned by Mulpha Hospitality Group – an international firm with investments in real estate and hospitality including InterContinental hotels and myriad restaurants across the Gold Coast. Despite their size, Isla Cantina feels small-scale, and perhaps that is part of its charm.

Shop 4, G7,
Capri on Via Roma, Surfers Paradise

5539 9257

islacantina.com.au

Open

Thu-Sun 11am-late

Must eat dish

Wagyu meatballs

Verdict - Scores out of 5

Food 3

Service 3

Ambience 4

Value 3.5

Overall 3.5