Popular Brisbane restaurant’s ‘triumphant’ return after devastating floods
A year on from last year’s floods, a beef-focused favourite is back in business in the CBD – and apart from portion sizes on their sauces, they are better than ever.
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What a horror year 2022 was for one of Brisbane’s busiest steakhouses.
Moo Moo The Wine Bar + Grill in the CBD – like many local businesses – was affected by last February’s devastating floods.
The usually thriving restaurant had its prep kitchen in the basement of the old Port Office building completely engulfed with water, and while the second-storey eatery itself escaped the physical tidal wave, the basement flooding caused a horrific mould problem upstairs, with the restaurant’s carpet and furniture all needing to be tossed out and replaced.
It was an almost seven-month ordeal during which time all the staff were generously kept on, itching to get back to work.
And get back to work they have, with the extended break quite possibly behind the energy and enthusiasm that radiates from the vast brigade of smiling chefs crammed into the open kitchen visible as guests enter, and the floor team, which balances professionalism and personality with flair.
While the renovation work would have allowed the opportunity for change in the segmented dining areas, Moo Moo looks largely the same, retaining its warmth and masculinity, with brown leather chairs and banquettes, white tablecloths, walnut-hued timber trimmings, a row of plants for a pop of colour and the statement dry-ageing meat cabinet.
The hero glass wine cellar showcases a comprehensive, global array of bottles from the affordable and easy drinking to those usually reserved for the Black Amex-carrying among us, such as a $2100 bottle of 2017 Henschke Hill of Grace.
There is a beyond lengthy list of signature cocktails, plus local and imported beers, including their very own highly sessionable Moo Moo Crisp Ale.
The latter is perhaps the perfect match for one of the restaurant’s most popular entrees, Asian-inspired “Bang bang duck” ($28), from a seafood-heavy list of options.
Served on a bed of shimeji mushrooms, cucumber and garlic shoots dressed in soy, the duck shows great potential, but is a little dry on this occasion.
The other most popular entree, according to our charismatic waiter, is the Queensland blue swimmer crab ($29).
Arriving like a trio of canapes on a plate, the freshly picked crustacean rests on grain cracker plinths, dotted with miso cream, rings of pickled onion and a face scrunchingly tart citrus gel, making each bite so good you could order 10 more.
But what guests really come to Moo Moo for is the beef.
There can be anywhere up to 11 steaks on the menu at any one time sourced from all over Australia, plus the Moo Moo signature – a Sanchoku MB 6-7+ wagyu rump cap, which is carved at the table and served with sides ($178 for two people, $198 for three).
All bar one steak on my visit is grain-fed, with the exception a tenderloin from Yarranbrook Feedlot in Inglewood, which is pasture-raised but finished on grain.
My 200g version ($54, there is also a 300g version for $69) arrives medium-rare as requested with prominent bar marks providing plenty of sought-after char against the juicy pink flesh.
All steaks are served with complimentary horseradish or mustard, with sauces an extra $5 each – arguably slightly hefty considering there is little more than a tablespoon of my chosen chimichurri.
For those who really like their beef saucy though, there is the uber rich MB3+ short rib ($62) from Stanbroke in the Darling Downs marinated and cooked until fall-off-the-bone tender in a sweet sticky Chinese barbecue sauce.
Deeply fatty but finger-licking delicious, the 550g portion is best shared between two with a side of the venue’s signature wagyu fat potatoes ($12) fried until their edges go golden and gnarly.
There are plenty of desserts for the sweet tooth, including a hot fudge sundae brownie and a dish called “the apple” with white chocolate mousse that our waiter describes as “divine”, but we are far too full.
Moo Moo may have had a rough 2022 but it has shaken it off and come out triumphant.
Moo Moo The Win Bar + Grill
Port Office Building,
39 Edward St,
Brisbane City
1300 070 710
moomoorestaurant.com
Open
Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 5.30pm-late
Must try dish
Qld blue swimmer crab
Verdict
Food 3.5 stars