Picnic Cafe review: Inside West End’s busiest breakfast spot

A West End cafe’s swift service, engaging decor and on-trend menu are drawing crowds, but does the food live up to the hype?

“Is it always this busy?” I ask the girl at the counter amid what is organised chaos, with every table full, a barista pumping out coffees like it’s an Olympic sport, a queue out the door, and a staff member taking phone numbers to call guests when a seat becomes available.

I’m at Picnic Cafe in West End’s West Village precinct on a Sunday morning and it’s more frantic than a fishmonger on Christmas Eve. And yes, according to the girl, it is always this busy. It’s easy to see why though.

The interior dining area at Picnic Cafe in West End. Picture: David Kelly

The corner cafe on Boundary St is lined with a jungle of lush, potted plants outside, while inside is Mediterranean meets Californian cool courtesy of teal cabinetry, stone paved floors, white walls, greenery and floor-to-ceiling windows. It’s fresh, vibrant and just where you would want to spend a morning sipping coffee and catching up with friends.

The menu is also no doubt part of the appeal, hitting all the modern trends, while also offering something a little different.

Think pumpkin croque madame with gorgonzola and sage bechamel, Hong Kong-style French toast with caramelised banana; and Thai fried rice with pork belly.

Despite the venue being at capacity, the kitchen is clearly a well-oiled machine with our dishes hitting the table in just 15 minutes.

The lamb shawarma ($25) is a contemporary interpretation of the classic Levantine dish, which is believed to have originated during the Ottoman Empire.

The lamb shawarma at Picnic. Picture: David Kelly

Rather than featuring traditional spit-roasted or slow-cooked meat, this version uses lamb mince, though the same original spice profile appears present. It’s scattered across the plate sprinkled with sumac and covered by a sunny side-up fried egg, ready to be wrapped inside a folded sheet of flat bread, along with roasted cherry tomatoes, mint, magenta-hued pickled onions and dill sour cream. It’s a challenge to assemble and eat without wearing it – especially with the nuggets of lamb prone to absconding – but the flavours certainly hit the mark.

As for the korokke Benedict ($26) with tonkatsu hollandaise, poached eggs and avocado, it’s terrific in theory, offering a fun play on the much-loved Japanese croquette, but the mix of wagyu and potato inside seems slightly askew – more gluey than creamy or fluffy.

The Korokke Benedict at Picnic. Picture: David Kelly

Coffee is taken seriously here with Paradox’s Paper Moon their house blend featuring dark cherry notes and a bitter finish, sitting alongside a range of single origin, batch brew and cold brew from Talo Coffee, while the cold drip also uses Paradox beans, though all this changes regularly. As well as coffee, there are milkshakes and thickshakes, smoothies, cold-pressed juices, iced teas, and a tight alcohol offering moving from Australian wines under $45 a bottle to Queensland-brewed beers and cocktails such as an espresso martini, mimosa and Aperol spritz.

Picnic Cafe has put together a solid package that is appealing to the masses, and with us in and out within half an hour thanks to swift service, and a herd of diners ready to take our spot, they’ve also created a gold mine.

Picnic Cafe West End

111 Boundary St, West End

2111 0712

picniccafebne.com.au

Open Daily 7am-3pm

Verdict – Scores out of 5

Food 3.5

Service 3.5

Ambience 4

Value 3.5

Overall 3.5