One star for ambience, but this could be Brisbane’s best bacon and egg sanga
Its fit-out won’t blow you away, but this inner city eatery’s bacon and egg sandwich might – considered the “best ever” version our reviewer has had.
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When I say to my brunch date, “Pick anything you like on the menu”, and he chooses the “breakfast sandwich”, I’m mildly disappointed.
We’re at the new Sunny Side Sandwiches in Brisbane’s Paddington – the second store in the brand for owners Mack Bowers and Charline De Conto. The pair has another operation a crust flick north in Windsor that has been going gangbusters, despite having to rebuild after opening just prior to the 2022 floods in which the shop was washed away.
My disappointment at my guest’s choice comes only because I’d been secretly eyeing off several other options on the tiny sanga slinger’s menu, including a chicken schnitty number, a version with crumbed eggplant and a classic egg and lettuce rendition featuring a whole boiled egg, which tickle my tastebuds more than plain bacon and eggs on bread.
But I’m not afraid to admit, I am wrong, very wrong.
The Sunny Side breakfast sandwich may just be the best bit of bacon and eggs on bread I’ve ever had.
At the eatery, customers select a sandwich from the 14 different varieties available, then select their choice of bread – traditional or wholemeal shokupan, rye, milk bun or gluten free – then you add sauce – anything from Baby Ray’s BBQ to harissa – and any extras, such as cheeses or caramelised onion; before you decide whether or not to turn it into a meal by adding chips or hash browns and a drink (a can of soft drink or bottle of water).
The beyond helpful young guy at the counter, where diners order, explains everything and thoughtfully makes recommendations on what bread and sauce selection will best suit my sanga choice.
For the aforementioned breakfast sandwich ($15.50) he suggests the traditional shokupan and the “epic sauce” – a herby mayo with Korean chilli flakes for extra flavour rather than spice.
Insert expletive here because this combo is bloody brilliant. The eggs are barely set, rendering them creamy and almost custard-like against the tanned streaky bacon that’s just soft enough to bite through without ripping out half the filling. Add the sweetness of caramelised onion on the toasted, buttered bread base, a pepped-up kimchi mayo and what the cafe calls “egg magic” – a blend of nutritional yeast, salt and Korean red chilli flakes – and you have an absolute cracking sandwich. I can only imagine how good it would be with a hangover.
My pastrami salad sanga ($15 for 100g of wagyu or $21 for 200g) is decidedly simple by comparison, with layers of the salty, scarlet meat wedged into fresh, fluffy shokupan alongside sliced tomato, cucumber, lettuce and pickles with a sweet mustard vinegar dressing.
Uncomplicated and unfussy, this is the classic deli sandwich from your childhood.
My self-proclaimed hash brown connoisseur brunch date also gives the pre-made potato cakes sprinkled with Korean chilli flakes a big thumbs up for execution – shatteringly crisp exterior, soft interior.
While I call Sunny Side a cafe, it’s more of a grab-and-go spot with just four bar seats inside pushed up against a wall in the corner, and a line of low tables and stools outside along the footpath that are shared with coffee shop Blackout next door, which blares a certain style of rock music that’s rather an acquired taste.
Next time I think I’ll just take my order and eat in my car, but nothing will be keeping me away from that breakfast sandwich.
Sunny Side Sandwiches
73A Latrobe Tce, Paddington
Open
Daily 8am-2.30pm
Verdict – Scores out of 5
Food 4
Service 4
Ambience 1
Value 3.5
Overall 3.5