One of Melbourne’s most adored restaurants opens in Brisbane

The Brisbane version of one of Melbourne’s most adored restaurants has opened with a bang in the CBD by the river.

Spanner crab and hand-rolled noodles at Supernormal Brisbane.

Since its launch a decade ago along Flinders Lane, Supernormal has become one of Melbourne’s most adored restaurants.

From highly revered restaurateur Andrew McConnell and his Trader House group responsible for Aussie hospitality stars like Cutler & Co, Cumulus Inc and Gimlet, the modern Asian eatery has won fans with its fast, fun and flavour-filled package that appeals equally to the everyday man as it does the gourmand. So when it was announced McConnell would be launching a second Supernormal in Brisbane as his first hospitality venture outside Melbourne, expectations were high. Will it be as good? Will it work in Brisbane? These were the questions the Queensland foodie community were asking.

The dining room at Supernormal, Brisbane.

Judging by the full house of guests on my visit, with tables turning over even at 8.30pm – practically midnight by Brisbane dining standards – the answer to the latter is a resounding “yes”. The Brisbane Supernormal – at the base of the prestigious new 443 Queen St residential tower – is pure glitz and glam with mirrored walls, vaulted ceilings and a magical view of the Brisbane River and Story Bridge. It feels truly special yet is casual enough for most diners on my visit to be donning simple T-shirt and jeans, and even the occasional hoodie.

A wall of mirrors reflects the Brisbane River view at Supernormal in the CBD.

The lack of pretence also flows through the staff, who warmly welcome patrons in with everyone from the kitchen team to bartenders saying hello as customers make their way to their tables. It’s a small touch but it sets things off on the right foot.

Just as the decor boasts its own unique style, so does the menu at Supernormal Brisbane. Our knowledgeable and highly proficient waitress informs us that the only dish to appear on both the Melbourne and Brisbane Asian-fusion menus is the signature New England lobster roll, with the remainder of the dishes created for the Queensland market, whether it be a twist on a Melbourne favourite or something new.

That could mean a starter of scallops roasted in kelp butter, an entree of hand-rolled noodle salad with spanner crab and sesame, or maybe a main of grilled wild barramundi with XO sauce, or slow-cooked Sichuan lamb shoulder.

The signature duck at Supernormal Brisbane.

We begin with a Moreton Bay bug fritter ($10 each) from the list of appetisers and raw bar. It’s the type of fried, finger-licking snack that calls to be paired with a beer from the mostly Australian list of lagers, pale ales and XPAs; while a glass of champagne from the food-focused, global wine list, encompassing popular labels and emerging producers, is the best pairing for that signature lobster roll ($24). With rice wine vinegar adding an Asian touch to the mayonnaise lacquering the chilled crustacean meat, it’s a smashable dish sure to become just as popular in Brisbane as it is in Melbourne.

Our waitress insists the claypot sticky pork ribs and ginger and prawn dumplings ($24) are the pick of the entrees, with the tiny bowl featuring a quartet of slippery and sweet prawn parcels alongside knuckle-sized nubs of pork ribs. Singing with the warming flavours of star anise and cinnamon from an almost jammy sauce, my only complaint is I simply want more.

The venue’s ultimate signature dish though is a twist on Peking duck ($88). The half duck is salt cured, rubbed with a five spice-esque mix and twice cooked before being doused with a jus at the table and served alongside hoisin sauce, fluffy boa buns in place of pancakes, and rounds of cucumber instead of classic battens.

Although the skin is flaccid rather than crispy as advertised on the menu, it is still tasty thanks to that spice rub, while the meat slips off the bone with the gentlest of touches.

The Valrhona chocolate, caramelised miso, peanut and sesame dessert at Supernormal, Brisbane.

Desserts read relatively simply: fresh mangosteen on ice ($14), sesame and chocolate cookies ($10) or our strawberry, red shiso liqueur and yuzu meringue ($20).

It’s a choice that turns out to be the perfect palate cleanser with tart citrusy sorbet and slivers of fresh strawberry contrasting the sweet, crisp-shelled meringue.

As we’re fondly farewelled by the smiling staff on our departure, it’s safe to say Supernormal’s addition to the Brisbane dining scene is an astutely welcomed one.

delicious.com.au/eatout

Supernormal Brisbane

443 Queen St, Brisbane City

3524 2000

brisbane.supernormal.net.au

Open

Mon-Sun 11.30am-11pm

Must try

Lobster roll

Verdict

Food 4

Service 5

Ambience 4.5

Value 3.5

Overall 4