Kangaroo tartare? Unique offering on the menu at new Queen’s Wharf restaurant

A South American restaurant with a unique menu including kangaroo is now open at Brisbane’s hottest new food precinct, and even Chinese food isn’t safe from the adventurous chef behind it.

Some of the snacks available at Azteca restaurant at Queen's Wharf in Brisbane City.

A South American menu with kangaroo dishes? Last time I checked there weren’t any skippies bouncing around that part of the world, but that is the adventurous path chef Zac Sykes has taken at new Queen’s Wharf restaurant Azteca.

Azteca restaurant at Queen's Wharf in Brisbane City.

Taking a prime tenancy on the river side of the developing Brisbane CBD precinct, the venue delivers an eye-catching aesthetic with tables outside overlooking the South Bank skyline, curved booths inside under a canopy of greenery and a striking bar area of emerald tones anchored with a DJ deck in the centre playing house beats that are just subdued enough for those in the dining room to carry out conversations without raising their voices.

An experienced front of house team welcomes guests into the buzzy, faintly lit space; before happily offering up recommendations from both the drink and food menus.

Food at Azteca restaurant at Queen's Wharf in Brisbane City.

A cocktail is arguably the best way to kick things off, thanks to a Latin-inspired list of signature creations anchored by various spins on the Brazilian classic, the Caipirinha.

Our “OG” Caipirinha is expertly made using Cachaça 51 and is well priced by today’s standards at $23; while the chilli tequila-based El Fuego will hit the spot for those who like a spicy margarita. The wine list, meanwhile, keeps in the Latin theme with drops from Argentina and Chile, alongside traditionally popular varieties from Europe, Australia and New Zealand by largely well-known labels.

The bar area at Azteca.

As for the aforementioned menu, it’s a curious blending of Latin influences from the likes of Peru, Argentina, Mexico, Colombia and more with a nod to chef Sykes’s Asian cooking background and the best of local Aussie ingredients. That means a relatively concise line-up of snacks, entrees, larger plates and shareables, running from yellowfin tuna tacos with kimchi or truffle churros to corn bread topped with spanner crab, and even chipotle lobster. My dining companion isn’t too interested in the kangaroo, which comes either as a tartare or braised tail with a yuca hash brown, so we opt for the yellowfin tuna tiradito based on our waitress’s recommendation. The thin slices of fish are crusted in black and white sesame seeds and hidden beneath a duvet of raw radish discs, crumble peanuts and orange segments, with a drizzle of the chilli oil aji mirisol providing a sneaky hit of spice.

The yellowfin tuna tiradito at Azteca restaurant at Queen's Wharf in Brisbane City.

From the larger plates, we’re tossing up between a grilled pork chop with pineapple and fermented jalapeño, or wagyu short ribs with soy and mirin, but decide on the half chicken with mole. The bird is juicier than a freshly picked peach in summer, with the dark chocolate mole far more subtle and delicate than those I’ve tried throughout Mexico but still robust enough to deliver flavour.

From the menu’s share section, we try the Latin spin on classic Chinese Peking duck with the dry-aged game bird served alongside maize-based, Colombian arepas instead of traditional pancakes, as well as spring onion curls, cucumber battens and a blood plum dipping sauce. It’s different to the original as the arepas act more like a tostada, the excellent cookery of the duck ensures it’s enjoyable.

The Peking duck at Azteca restaurant at Queen's Wharf in Brisbane City.

We over-order with two sides from the rice and vegetables section: Jerusalem artichokes with a sunflower puree that’s buried at the bottom of the bowl but worth excavating for, and roasted cauliflower delivering more health than excitement.

Despite being fuller than a post office at Christmas, we still find room for dessert – a twist on Mexico’s favourite tres leche cake. The deconstructed dish features a milk granita frozen with liquid nitrogen that smokes at the table, a thick puddle of caramel and a white chocolate mousse that’s a fun and creative spin on the classic. With its uplifting vibe, quality service and out-of-the-box menu, Azteca is just the place to celebrate the end of the year.

Azteca

The Terrace, Queen’s Wharf, 33 William St, Brisbane City

3377 3420

azteca.com.au

Open

Lunch and dinner daily

Verdict

Food 3.5

Service 4

Ambience 4

Value 3.5

Overall 3.5