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Is this Brisbane’s fanciest Sunday roast?

This celebrated Brisbane restaurant has moved to a sleek new location, where its $75 Sunday roast is redefining the classic weekend lunch.

Clarence restaurant has relocated to Fish Lane in South Brisbane.
Clarence restaurant has relocated to Fish Lane in South Brisbane.

Is this Brisbane’s fanciest Sunday roast?

It’s the question I ask myself as I view the menu at Clarence in South Brisbane on a Sunday.

The neighbourhood eatery from celebrated chefs Ben McShane and Matthew Kuhnemann has just relocated from Stanley St Woolloongabba to a fresh and modern space along thriving eat street Fish Lane in South Brisbane.

While their previous site was dark and moody, exuding heritage building charm, the new tenancy is contemporary and sharp, with two walls of windows flooding the corner dining room with sunlight that bounces off polished concrete floors and striking stone finishes.

The central open kitchen is the star of the room, wrapped with high bar seating so diners can watch the culinary team in action.

Clarence restaurant in its new ‘fresh and modern space’ in South Brisbane.
Clarence restaurant in its new ‘fresh and modern space’ in South Brisbane.

The new location also marks a new chapter for the restaurant, renewing its commitment to Queensland produce and switching to a more brasserie-style format where comfort food is given a fun and creative edge. Think pig head schnitzel, potato gnocchi with caviar and dashi cream, or rack of venison with blueberries and white lasagne.

The menu moves from cold and raw seafood to appetisers, followed by entrees, mains and mains to share, with a three-course dinner for $85pp or a terrific value set lunch for just $56pp for two courses or $65pp for three.

However, at midday on a Sunday, the regular a la carte offering is replaced by a rotating version of a classic roast lunch. For $75pp, guests receive a series of starters from the regular menu, before a main of roast meat and all the trimmings, followed by two desserts.

There’s also the option to add one of four signature cocktails and extra dishes from the a la carte offering, including an open sandwich of sorts featuring a hunk of spiced, flour-coated lobster on a triangle of white bread with pickles ($18). It is a tasty enough little number, yet completely unnecessary once we realise the volume of food about to be sent our way.

Kicking off the Sunday roast are breadrolls made with “aged cream” giving what is meant to be a milk bun an almost scone-like quality.

Grass fed sirloin at Clarence restaurant.
Grass fed sirloin at Clarence restaurant.

They’re quickly followed by a quartet of starters also available on the a la carte menu including a plate of salami; taramasalata with crudites using an abundance of sublimely fresh vegetables from Brisbane’s beloved Neighbourhood Farm, sliced blue mackerel with a pungent bergamot ponzu, and a crisp witlof salad with blood orange and dates.

The spread with the bread is easily enough for a light lunch on its own and we’re more than satisfied before the main attraction even arrives.

But generosity seems to be the spirit here, with the roast itself a huge portion for just the two of us.

There are four slices of perfectly pink roast beef resting on wilted cabbage, alongside two very well-made yorkshire puddings in a puddle of think gravy. On separate plates are some of the crispiest roast potatoes you’ll find around – cooked in beef fat with their edges roughed to ensure maximum crunch; plus carrots (a little on the raw side) in a red wine vinegar jus, and the vegetarian version of fish fingers – crumbed and fried parsnip sticks.

Gnocchi with caviar and dashi cream at Clarence.
Gnocchi with caviar and dashi cream at Clarence.

This is a seriously boujee Sunday roast and hits just right with one of Clarence’s own ginger beers they serve on tap, alongside their signature brewed rice lager and pale ale.

The wine list is entirely Australian, with a focus on small biodynamic and organic producers, while cocktails include a tart and palate cleansing rhubarb gin fizz.

For pudding, out come two desserts – a blueberry frangipane tart with clotted cream and a chocolate nemis cake with warm sherry custard. While the cream and custard would perhaps be better swapped to their opposing desserts to help balance the flavours, the dishes provide a satisfying sweet finish.

Yes, this may indeed be Brisbane’s fanciest Sunday roast, but you’ll want to dress for comfort as you’ll need an elastic waist to cope with the abundance.

Apple tarte tatin at Clarence.
Apple tarte tatin at Clarence.

51 Fish Lane,
South Brisbane

0452 655 996

clarencerestaurant.com

Open

Mon-Thu 5pm-10pm; Fri-Sat noon-11pm;
Sun noon-10pm

Must try

Crudites

Verdict

Food 4/5

Service 3.5/5

Ambience 4/5

Value 4.5/5

Overall 4/5

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Original URL: https://www.couriermail.com.au/lifestyle/qweekend/is-this-brisbanes-fanciest-sunday-roast/news-story/08b5f7f5d6d620c7ad7a8e7790dd71af