The reason diners are trekking across Queensland to eat at this renovated restaurant

Boasting country charm and hospitality and classic fair with a contemporary twist, this new rural restaurant is drawing patrons from far and wide.

Just outside of Toowoomba in the quiet, blink-and-you-miss-it town of Hampton, a two-hour drive west of Brisbane, was remarkably one of Queensland’s most popular and loved eateries.

Emeraude was the work of the Hinds family, with matriarch Amanda starting a tourism revolution in the region as guests came from as far as Bundaberg to dine at the cosy country bistro, famous for heroing the best of local ingredients in globally inspired dishes.

But in 2020, all of it suddenly and sadly came to an end, when a new septic system was installed at the tenancy that could not handle the load of the restaurant, forcing it to close.

The devastated family turned to pop-ups at local olive farm Bunnyconnellen, along with catering gigs, until they were finally able to secure a new site last year, buying and restoring the historic Nolan’s Block building in nearby Crows Nest, with a few other local couples.

Myrtille restaurant at Crows Nest. Picture: Supplied

The renovations – as all renovations do – experienced significant delays, and it was not until Good Friday this year the Hinds clan could finally reveal their new dream.

Myrtille is like the grown-up, more sophisticated and dramatic version of Emeraude.

Soaring barn-like ceilings hover overhead, while a deep, cobalt blue painted on the brick walls and a histrionic floral mural help close in the space and add a level of cosiness.

Warming things up even further is the welcoming, passionate and professional staff, who explain the generous menu, which moves from share-style snacks through to entrees and mains that continue Amanda’s ethos of showcasing the best of local produce and can change week-to-week, or even day-to-day, depending on what’s in season.

The scallop souffle at Myrtille. Picture: Supplied

Bowls of puffed up salt and pepper chicken skin crackling hit tables around us, devoured with the restaurant’s own gin made by Pechey Distilling Co just down the road, using locally grown botanicals such as finger limes, strawberry gum and citrus.

While one of the signature cocktails, the quirkily named “Not tonight Josephine” with a blend of blueberry syrup, cassis and prosecco and served in a glass big enough to swim in, makes for a delicious foil to the tasty Mooloolaba whiting sliders.

They come as a pair ($14), with the fish lightly battered and fried and topped with pickled cucumbers and a finger-licking tartare sauce.

Entrees run from chicken soup to slow-cooked snails with cognac, bacon and garlic cream; while mains could be fish and chips, citrus-glazed duck or pork belly cooked for 12 hours.

The underused hogget makes an appearance in a Moroccan-inspired pie ($45), with the locally reared meat slow-cooked until pull-apart tender and wrapped in crisp, shortcrust pastry.

Dollops of soft goat’s cheese and a herbaceous gremolata are on hand to help balance the sheep’s richness.

A twice-baked gruyere souffle topped with scallops ($39) is every bit as good as it sounds, with the molluscs plump and the souffle stringy with cheese.

Tempura-battered and fried cauliflower with hummus, garlic yoghurt and dukkha ($12) has been carried over from the Emeraude days as a new side dish, but is easily of entree proportions, with three enormous florets filling the plate.

Myrtille Crows Nest, crispy cauliflower. Picture: Supplied

Myrtille also serves breakfast with a twist on weekends, with the table of four from Bundaberg sitting behind us at dinner booking in two days in a row because they say, “it’s that good”.

But if you miss out on a brekky reservation, the Hinds family also owns the new bakery next door, My Little Blueberry, which serves up a huge range of pies, pastries, cakes, tarts and sweets, with the pork, apple and fennel sausage roll a winner.

Overflowing with country charm and hospitality, it’s easy to see why diners are making the long trek to Myrtille.

1 Thallon St, Crows Nest

4698 4164

myrtille.com.au

Open

Thur-Sun lunch and dinner

Must try

Twice-baked scallop souffle

Verdict – Scores out of 5

Food 3.5

Service 4

Ambience 3.5

Value 3.5

Overall 3.5