Inside Leonards: The new bar and bistro replacing Urbane and The Euro

Two of Brisbane’s most acclaimed restaurants have been replaced by a new European-inspired bistro. But is it any good?

Leonards Bar & Bistro has had quite the start. The flash, new Brisbane CBD restaurant and its sister bar Dawn have taken over the Mary St tenancy formerly occupied by acclaimed fine diner Urbane, its casual neighbouring eatery The Euro and bar The Laneway, which were devastatingly forced to shut at the end of 2019 after owner Andy Buchanan revealed his agonising battle with multiple sclerosis.

The elegant fit-out at Leonards Bar & Bistro, Brisbane.

Sydney-based training group Allara Learning, which specialises in hospitality education services, is behind Leonards and after signing the lease late last year, has completely transformed the character building.

The group moved its school in upstairs, while on street level it’s hard to remember where the divide between The Euro and Urbane once was. What is clear though is this is a fit-out where no expense has been spared.

A glamorous, glowing bar greets diners on arrival – its red brick-backed shelves lined with both high end and popular spirits chosen by general manager and award-winning mixologist Marco Nunes for their ability to blend into the venue’s long list of cocktails, which includes everything from an autumn-inspired negroni to the tequila-based fluffy paloma.

It would be far too easy to pull up one of the stools along the counter and settle in for the night with a charcuterie platter but the bistro proper lies up a wheel chair-friendly gentle gradient.

The pork terrine at Leonards Bar & Bistro in Brisbane. Picture: Jess Kearney

Classic European bentwood chairs tuck into timber tables, while terracotta banquettes contrast against charcoal walls dressed with gold-framed artwork, which match the brass hand rails.

It’s elegant and classy but casual enough that a diner on our visit feels comfortable enough to enjoy dinner in her activewear with a young child in tow.

The service reflects this unique formal informality, with the immaculately dressed staff almost exploding with enthusiasm, so much so the maitre d’ is literally dancing and spinning around the room singing.

Perhaps the zeal is gratitude for simply being able to be open.

Less than a week after Leonards launching, Brisbane was thrown into lockdown.

Now up and running once more, staff are clearly keen to make the most of it and have been well-drilled on the menu – though you’d expect nothing less with a hospitality school attached.

The offering is bistro fare, maybe haloumi and zucchini cakes and steak tartare for starters or mains of mushroom Tagliatelle or a burger and fries.

The smoked chicken Maryland at Leonards Bar & Bistro, Brisbane.

An entree of two smoked Lebanese eggplants ($22) with a crunchy fried crumb arrives, the vegetarian sausages of sorts met with a romesco sauce for dipping.

It’s the type of dish that’s best shared in a tapas-like situation, as is the hearty pork terrine ($22) with a crowning of pickled veg to balance out the fattiness of the meat.

The latter is a solid rendition of a classic, however, it needs to ditch the overly crumbly rye in favour of some sturdy crackers on which it can be piled high.

Smoked chicken Maryland ($32) conjures memories of Christmas with its almost ham-like flavour, but the tomato sauce it’s lathered in could do with less salt.

The profiteroles at Leonards Bar & Bistro in Brisbane. Picture: Jess Kearney

Perennial bistro favourite the rack of lamb ($42) has been expertly Frenched with the meat taken off the bones to allow for easy eating.

Served with skin-on kipfler potatoes and a jus, it’s a retro revival.

So too are the profiteroles ($12) for dessert, though in an attempt at a contemporary twist, they are filled with vanilla ice cream instead of crème patissiere and showered with a hot chocolate sauce at the table.

Leonards also runs an all-day snack-style menu of cheese boards, charcuterie, potted smoked trout and deli sandwiches and it is this that I’d come back for.

Inside Leonards Bar & Bistro, Brisbane with its long back-lit bar.

A Catalan sanger with a glass of Snake + Herring GSM (though it’s far better value by the bottle) from the smart, global wine list, and being taken care of by the genuinely hospitable staff in a beautiful setting, now that’s a win.

LEONARDS BAR & BISTRO

181 Mary St, Brisbane City

1300 676 170

Leonardsanddawn.com.au

Open Mon-Fri 7am-late, Sat-Sun 11am-late

Must eat dish

Smoked eggplant

VERDICT - Scores out of 5

Food 3

Ambience 4.5

Service 4

Value 3.5