‘In dire need of salt’: Luxury new restaurant still a work in progress

An ultra glam new eatery has launched in one of Queensland’s most anticipated hotels with mixed results.

Lito restaurant at Mondrian Gold Coast. Picture: Justin Nicholas

Ca-ching. Ca-ching. Ca-ching. As I walk into Lito, the hubbub of diners and upbeat background music is drowned out by the sound of the imaginary cash register in my head.

This is a restaurant where no expense has been spared on its looks.

And it should probably come as no surprise.

Lito is the all-day, Italian eatery at the new luxury hotel Mondrian Gold Coast – the first Australian venture for the celebrated global brand known for its fashion-forward, ultra-stylish aesthetics.

The resort is perched opposite the beach at Burleigh Heads, with the restaurant occupying the ground floor, which means no ocean views because of the bank of sand-side trees, but a relaxed vibe as fresh as the ocean air.

And, honestly, you don’t even need a sea vista when the interiors are this sexy.

Spaghetti alle vongole at Lito restaurant, Mondrian Gold Coast.

Designed by Sydney-based firm Alexander &CO. the fit-out is warm and inviting, with a Mediterranean bent. While the details scream expensive – waterfall edges on the solid timber bar, terrazzo flooring, eye-catching light fixtures, top-end furniture and a wall of sliding glass doors – the vibe is not, instead it’s casual and welcoming to all. In fact, there are diners in tracksuit pants and activewear on the terrace, while those inside feel comfortable in everything from shorts and thongs to designer duds. It makes for a space that works equally as well for a relaxed breakfast or lunch with friends to a dressed-up dinner date.

The wood-fire and charcoal-centric menu has similar wide appeal, beginning with breads, salumi and antipasti, before transitioning into salads, pastas, steaks and mains, like rotisserie chicken, porchetta and veal milanese.

Pumpkin and ricotta pasta at Lito restaurant at Mondrian Gold Coast in Burleigh Heads.

Local produce is used where possible, such as Westholme wagyu in our beef meatballs ($18) and seafood in the fritto misto ($25) caught just over the border off Tweed Heads. The former is desperate for more seasoning in both the meatballs and accompanying tomato sugo; while the latter needs a good squeeze of the partnered lemon to come alive and brighten the enormous portion of delicately battered school prawns, whiting, baby octopus and caulilini.

For a serve of vegetables, try the beautifully simple capponata of roasted eggplant and capsicum ($16) that is fruity and herbaceous.

The whole calamari at Lito restaurant at Mondrian Gold Coast in Burleigh Heads.

Also suffering from underseasoning is the whole calamari ($42). Another huge serving for the price, the squid arrives on a bed of crushed tomato in dire need of salt, as is the ocean catch itself, which shows signs of spending too long in the wood fire. The pork sausage rigatoni ($32) from the list of pastas is much better, though, with the sodium levels in check, and the hand-rolled pasta boasting just the right bite.

As part of the amenable service team, there is a sommelier on hand to help out with food and wine pairings from the approachable list that combines drops from Italy with Italian varietals made in Australia. Cocktails also take on the Italian theme, with a quartet of negronis alongside the likes of a prosecco and rhubarb number and a limoncello and bubbles concoction; though beers are mostly local.

Lemon meringue tart at Lito.

For dessert, there’s a tiramisu served tableside, which is apparently enough for two, plus a signature affogato and a variety of gelati made in house. But the real drawcard is “The trolley”, which tempts diners from its position in the centre of the restaurant, boasting five different cakes available by the slice for $12 each. There are the likes of an Italian meringue lemon tart, a chocolate and hazelnut torte or my guest’s choice, an orange and ricotta cheesecake. Although the pastry shell is a little too blonde, the centre is set perfectly.

Orange and ricotta cheesecake at Lito restaurant at Mondrian Gold Coast in Burleigh Heads.

Lito has been open just a few weeks when I visit and there’s definite room for improvement in the kitchen, but with all other elements of the restaurant already singing, this is sure to be a venue worth the drive down the M1.

LITO

Mondrian Gold Coast, First Ave, Burleigh Heads

5508 0000

litoburleighheads.com

Open

Mon-Fri breakfast 6am-11.30am, all-day dining 11.30am-late

Sat-Sun breakfast 6am-11am; all-day dining 11am-late

Must try

Pork sausage rigatoni

Verdict

Food 3

Service 4

Ambience 4

Value 4

Overall 4