Hospitality empire revives Alfred and Constance site

It was one of Brisbane’s most loved night-life spots for drinking and dining until it suddenly closed, but now this Fortitude Valley favourite is back open with a fresh offering.

Anooska Tucker-Evans

2 min read

August 29, 2024 - 1:30PM

QWeekend

Restaurant Justin Lane in Fortitude Valley.

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In the early to mid-2010s, the corner of Alfred and Constance St in Brisbane’s Fortitude Valley was the place to be for anyone under the age of 35. A&C, as it was affectionately known, was part rooftop bar, part nightclub, part restaurant, with a Tiki bar upstairs donning patrons with flower leis that would become the venue’s signature.

Then in late 2017 the good times came to an abrupt end when receivers seized control of the venue owned by entrepreneur Damian Griffiths.

Restaurant Justin Lane in Fortitude Valley.

The Doughnut Time founder had landed himself in some serious financial trouble, before declaring bankruptcy, which was later annulled, resolving more than $30 million in debt.

Trying to return the Valley site to its glory days is local hospitality empire Justin Lane Group, which acquired the tenancy at the end of last year. The company behind the hugely popular Paddock Bakery in Burleigh Heads decided to bring its other Burleigh icon to Brisbane, launching pizza and pasta bar Justin Lane in the old A&C spot at the end of July after more than a year of renovations. Although the building may be heritage-listed and retains much of its exterior character, inside has witnessed a complete gut-job. The landlord took care of much of the large structural changes, while acclaimed Gold Coast design firm Space Cubed has dramatically transformed the aesthetics, with a dining area for 200, alongside a high-end, underground cocktail bar, rooftop space, cafe and takeaway.

The rooftop bar at Justin Lane in Fortitude Valley.

The fit-out pays respect to the building’s age, with VJ walls and vintage industrial rod bar light pendants, but is contemporised with its crisp, white colour palette, modern communal tables and benches, and sleek bi-fold doors.

Approaching on the Constance St side, we’re greeted by cheery staff asking whether we would like to dine downstairs on bentwood seats or padded booths with full table service, or upstairs on the terrace warmed with gas heaters where patrons must order at the bar. We choose downstairs, but with a tap-dancing trio of toddlers at the next table turning the timber floors around us into their personal stage, I soon question our choice.

Food at Justin Lane in Fortitude Valley.

Thankfully, service is swift, with the charismatic and likeable staff quickly delivering our two signature cocktails to take the edge off.

The first is the mango and coconut caprioska; while the second is the passionfruit and chilli Tommy’s margarita featuring tequila infused with bird’s eye chillies. They’re two of 10 cocktails, which sit alongside a solid collection of Italian, Australian and New Zealand vino, with prices starting at the budget sum of just $11 per glass or $50 a bottle. Meanwhile, there are more than a dozen beers and ciders available by the bottle, can or on tap, plus three mocktails.

Food at Justin Lane in Fortitude Valley.

The menu runs from starters such as beetroot salad, tomato bruschetta and mushroom arancini to their famous handmade pastas, and sourdough-based, gas-fired pizzas.

Justin’s meatballs ($24) kick things off, with the quartet of pork and veal spheres sitting in a light and clean napoli sauce. Next up is the signature carbonara ($32), made traditionally with eggs, delivering lightness beneath the blanket of pork belly chunks.

Heartier is the lamb ragu gnocchi ($32), which is, undeniably, a big bowl of comfort, with marshmallow-like potato dumplings in a just- sweet tomato sauce laced with strings of slow-cooked lamb. It’s the hero dish, with the seafood pizza ($31) delivering on the crust and sugo front, though the prawns and calamari are not cooked through.

For dessert there’s a satisfactory tiramisu, an affogato, caramel chocolate mousse or cannoli, but my recommendation would be to instead go for another signature cocktail. Or better yet, head downstairs to that new underground bar and let loose on the cocktail offering there, with everything from a pandan and coconut negroni to a dirty martini with MSG.