Homely West End bistro worth driving across town for

A new Brisbane eatery is serving up comfort food in a cute cottage setting that instantly whisks you away to a place of calm from the in-your-face revelry of some of the other venues nearby.

On a Saturday night, at the quiet, dark end of West End’s Boundary St, away from the throng of restaurants, bars and pubs, a tiny, timber-clad cottage is aglow with music and laughter. But it’s not a house party or birthday celebration behind the revelry, it’s the recently opened Gum Bistro.

The 40-seat diner takes the space formerly home to Italian eatery Pasta Club and is the epitome of its eclectic neighbourhood.

Gum Bistro, West End. Picture: David Kelly

It’s a little daggy with stubby, off-white curtains hanging in the windows and op shop-esque artworks on the walls; a little bit retro thanks to the sliding glass front door and timber banquette that runs half the perimeter; and a little bit cool with bottles of wine, oils and fermentations used as decoration throughout.

But most of all, it’s unpretentious and homely. In fact, it feels like dining at a mate’s place, with our waiter like that awkward friend who tries hard to host dinner parties, but ends up being just a little more clumsy than competent, although the effort’s appreciated.

In contrast is co-owner Phil Poussart, who moves seamlessly between waiter, maitre d’ and sommelier, helping guests choose a drink from his multifarious wine list, representing familiar and exotic varietals from across the globe, with a particular penchant for Australian, French and Italian drops. There’s also almost a dozen house cocktails plus more than a handful of beers from Down Under, Italy and Belgium available.

The dining room at Gum Bistro, West End. Picture: David Kelly

While the drinks may celebrate flavours from afar, the mod Oz, share-style food is all about heroing what’s local.

Chef and fellow co-owner Lachlan Matheson (ex-Gerard’s, Fortitude Valley and Pasta Club) even credits his suppliers on the front of the menu, such as award-winning Sunshine Coast fruit and veg growers The Falls Farm, Fortitude Valley-based Urban Valley Mushrooms and Mick’s Nuts, right around the corner.

Another local inclusion is sourdough from popular Toowong bakery Riser, which is served on its own with cultured butter ($4 a slice) but is a necessary accompaniment to the duck liver parfait with mandarin jelly ($12).

And it’s the jelly which makes this dish shine, adding a sweet-tart punch to the subtle, understated liver and butter mixture, especially when smeared across the thick wedges of chewy bread.

The squid salad. Picture: David Kelly

As almost a palate cleanser to the silken parfait is the squid salad ($19).

Zinging with lemon, the terrific tangle of tender seafood rings, fennel ribbons, parsley and broadleaf rocket gives nods to the bold, acid-forward salads of the Middle East and makes your tongue stand to attention. It’s great preparation for the hearty Margra lamb ($41), which could be eaten as a main on its own or shared among a table.

The plate features three versions of the protein: rump, shoulder and sweetbreads across a bed of creamy beans in a rosemary-spiked jus, delivering all the nostalgia of a Sunday night roast, but with the welcomed pizzazz of a chef’s touch. Delicious!

The other large plates consist of Brisbane Valley quail with mushrooms ($39), a vegetable pie ($33) which looks the complete showstopper with golden, sky high pastry erupting from a high-sided white ramekin, and our choice, the cobia ($39) from Rocky Point Aquaculture, half way between Brisbane and the Gold Coast.

Cobia with zucchini sauce. Picture: David Kelly

The thick fillet of meaty fish arrives with its skin so crisp from the pan it almost shatters, while its flesh is only just cooked through. The quarters of harukei turnip it’s served with could do with a little more cooking time to render them tender, but I enjoy the beyond-al dente firmness for crunch. And nothing really matters when it’s covered in that verdant zucchini and creme fraiche sauce that has us asking for a spoon to scrape up every last drop.

Our only regret, not ordering the sticky date pudding or apple tarte tatin for dessert.

With food that punches above its weight as a neighbourhood eatery and a wine list that encourages adventure, Gum Bistro is worth driving across town for.

Gum Bistro

237 Boundary St, West End

0467 060 560

gumbistro.com

Open

Tue-Sat 5pm-10pm

Verdict – Scores out of 5

Food 4

Service 3

Ambience 3.5

Value 4

Overall 3.5