Calile’s thriving dining hotspot for the wealthy

It might be one of Brisbane’s most high-end and expensive restaurants, but the vibe at times is very casual, with two staff referring to me as “babe”.

A trio of musicians around the central baby grand piano provides the live jazz soundtrack only dulled by conversation that finds its crescendo as the night goes on.

It’s no doubt fuelled by the eye-twitchingly expensive wine list, created by Australian Sommelier’s Choice Award winner Alex McPherson, where the average glass costs $47 from the 67-strong by-the-glass selection, and bottle prices commonly feature three zeros.

The bar and dining room at SK Steak and Oyster in Fortitude Valley

At SK Steak & Oyster in the base of the award-winning Calile Hotel in Fortitude Valley, however, the mortgage-your-house price tags seem of little concern to most in the long, elegant dining room, with bottles of Burgundy and Champagne frequently making their way to plush, off-white booths of patrons or tables of T-shirt-clad blokes beside the flame-ravaged open kitchen.

We sit at the bar, a great spot for the solo diner or those keen to enjoy a pre- or post-dinner beverage, but perhaps a little cold and distant from the main dining room for a proper dinner.

The vibe at the glimmering grey stone counter is also much more casual than what you would expect in such a formal restaurant, with two staff referring to me as “babe” as they separately take my order for water and wine.

Steak, peas and mash at SK Steak and Oyster in Fortitude Valley.

No matter where you sit, though, the menu is the same – a two page traditional grill-style affair encompassing its moniker, as well as pastas, hot and cold seafood, and no less than nine potato dishes to be consumed alongside the mostly protein-focused plates.

Just like with the wine list, you’ll want deep pockets for the food, with a classic prawn cocktail coming in at $42, while a simple wedge salad is a gulp-inducing $38.

We order a main portion of the crustacean risotto ($50) and share it as an entree – the al dente rice stained crimson from a lush lobster bisque and sparingly flecked with thumbnail-sized pieces of lobster, bug and coral trout.

Other mains sit around the $65 pricepoint, with a straightforward veal schnitzel $68, and a serve of King George whiting, $64, to which you’ll need to add your own fries at $16, making your fish and chips a cool $80.

We opt for the signature burger and fries at $34. The wagyu patty comes hot off the grill, wedged in a golden, glossy bun, crowned with two slices of American cheese, American mustard and ketchup.

Mac 'n' cheese with lobster at SK Steak & Oyster, Fortitude Valley.

There’s also lettuce and seasoned sliced tomato to the side to add if you wish, and we do – bringing a burst of freshness to ensure a well-balanced, very tasty burger.

Of course the hero here, however, is the steak.

There are 11 to choose from, across black Angus, wagyu and Kiwami, although, interestingly, all are from the one supplier – Stockyard – and none are grass-fed.

As a lover of pasture-raised beef, this is a little disappointing, though our knowledgeable waiter manages to convince me to order the 220g wagyu eye fillet ($86), with a marble score of around six or seven, which he claims is his favourite steak on the menu. It’s unquestionably a great piece of meat.

Cooked to the medium-rare requested and aggressively seasoned, it has just the right level of marbling to deliver richness and roundness, without the overwhelming fatty mouthfeel. It comes with mustard or horseradish, but neither are necessary given the quality of the beef.

What is an ideal accompaniment, though, is the lobster mac ‘n’ cheese ($24) from the 12 sides – from fried eggs or mixed leaf salad to honey-roasted carrots. The monstrous portion features tender pasta in a bisque-flavoured creamy sauce, laced with a dice of lobster under a duvet of cheese. Delicious.

SK is not for the fiscally challenged, but for the well-heeled it has become a hotspot, and it’s not hard to see why.

Bustling, lively and with very much the “it” girl vibe, it’s thriving.

SK STEAK & OYSTER

The Calile Hotel, Ground, 12/48 James St, Fortitude Valley

3252 1857

sk-so.com

Open

Lunch Thu-Sun, Dinner daily

Must-eat dish

220g wagyu eye fillet

Verdict – Scores out of 5

Food 4

Service 4

Ambience 4

Value 3

Overall 4