Alchemy’s new takeaway menu a winning recipe

It’s loved for its fine-dining fare, but top restaurant Alchemy’s new casual takeaway offering might just be even better.

Brad Jolly is a chef known for his technical skills.

Classically trained and having worked across Europe, including alongside the likes of Marco Pierre White and Jamie Oliver, he has made fine dining his specialty at Brisbane CBD riverfront restaurant Alchemy.

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His food has always been about complexity, detail and luxury; each plate was treated as
a canvas, with his paint brushes, his arsenal of French techniques.

But with coronavirus lockdowns reducing the restaurant to takeaway only, the elaborate, highly finessed fare Jolly has become known for has gone, replaced with a range of pasta, gnocchi and risotto dishes, as well as a sort of gastropub offering including chicken schnitzel and chips and braised beef cheeks with mash.

It’s quite the shift for the chef and I love it!

Chef Brad Jolly in the kitchen at Alchemy restaurant, Brisbane City. Picture: David Kelly

While pasta has always been on the menu in one form or another at Alchemy, it’s previously been tricked up with such extravagances as veloute that foams like the sea or measured, Picasso-like plating.

But as a takeaway, it’s simply a whopping, generous serving sloshing around in a plastic container – the kind nonna would send you home with after a big family dinner. It’s wholesome, it’s hearty and it’s bulging with comfort and flavour.

Lunch and dinner orders are taken over the phone, with the restaurant’s spacious bar becoming the waiting room for pick-ups. Jolly’s wife Angelica, who normally runs front of house, has recruited the couple’s 14-year-old son to help with sending out meals.

The trio is dealing with an unexpectedly high number of orders on my Friday night visit and after a short delay, my order comes rushing out of the kitchen and is still piping hot after the 10-minute drive home.

Crumbed lamb belly at Alchemy restaurant, Brisbane City. Picture: David Kelly

From the English portion of the menu comes crumbed lamb belly with celeriac and carrot remoulade ($23). The lamb is served as two mini schnitzels, the crunchy panko exterior concealing a layer of delicious lamb fat and yielding meat; while the vinegary remoulade dressing coating shreds of raw carrot and celeriac offset the sheep’s richness. Atop the slaw there’s a lick of chilli sauce incendiary enough to clear the sinuses.

Gnocchi with pork and fennel sausage at Alchemy restaurant, Brisbane City. Picture: David Kelly

The takeaway gnocchi is available in three varieties – bolognese ($17), blue cheese ($16), and pork and fennel sausage ($19). The latter stars perfectly cooked potato dumplings in
a concentrated cream and white wine sauce scattered with pan-fried tufts of salty crumbled sausage. Less truffle oil and this would be
a dish you’d order time and time again.

Unquestionably on speed dial, however, should be the penne with braised goat ($18) – the meat rendered into submission with brightness ensured from a tomato sauce that smacks of acidity. The only thing missing,
a crunchy bread roll to mop up all the sauce.

Penne pasta with braised goat at Alchemy restaurant, Brisbane City. Picture: David Kelly

There are three classic desserts to choose from: pavlova, lemon curd and fruit salad ($14), tiramisu with coffee and biscotti ($13), or
a chocolate brownie crowned with raspberries, honeycomb, meringue and cream ($12). The brownie – made that morning – is bloody terrific. With the crisp shell giving way to a textbook fudgy, rich centre.

There is also a small selection of predominantly Australian wines available – some below bottle-shop prices, some just over.

While the coronavirus may have decimated the restaurant industry as we know it, out of necessity comes innovation, and the decision for the Jolly family to move into a more relaxed form of food is one that is certainly paying off for the diner. Who knows, when this is all over, they may want to consider opening an Italian trattoria or gastropub.

ALCHEMY

175 Eagle St, Brisbane City

Ph 3229 3175

alchemyrestaurant.com.au

Tue-Fri 11am-2pm, 5pm-8pm, Sat 5pm-8pm

VERDICT

Food 4/5

Ease of ordering 4/5

Value 4/5

Overall 4/5

Must try dish

Penne with braised goat