Mauritius, the tiny island that's big on action

This little Indian Ocean island has more to offer than its size suggests.

Compared with other major island destinations, Grand Baie is absent of crowds, hotel high-rises, chaotic traffic and commercial fanfare.

I had ordered a vanilla tea to go with my seafood-soup dinner at La Rougaille Creole – a brightly tangerine-coloured bistro in the backstreets of Mauritius’s main tourist hub, Grand Baie. The open-air restaurant is renowned for authentic Creole cuisine, particularly red aromatic gumbos. I always welcome local recommendations, but perhaps I didn’t expect my waiter to be so blunt.

“I’ll give you some rum,” he said with some cheek, a knowing look and one raised eyebrow.

Oops. I think he saw my yawn and was determined to perk me up with a shot of the island’s magic juice. The mood was hardly party time; more mellow, with a lone acoustic guitar player as roving entertainment, gently strumming past half-occupied tables. The restaurant’s relaxed atmosphere matched its locale.

Compared with other major island destinations, Grand Baie is absent of crowds, hotel high-rises, chaotic traffic and commercial fanfare. This coastal hotspot emits a village feel in a country of about 1.26 million. But while the scenes around the natural harbour are peaceful and low-key, this place can definitely wear you out.

Truth be told, it had been a big day – and week. Mauritius packs a punch for a small island – and I’m not just talking about the rum factor, which I’ll get to.

It takes a tick over eight hours via direct flight from Perth with Air Mauritius to the “Jewel of the Indian Ocean”. The emerald country stretches 65km north to south and 45km east to west, blanketed by its biggest industry – metres-high sugar cane plantations dwarfed by crooked mountain ranges.

You can barter at the historic Central Market in capital Port Louis.

There’s a bounty of things to do within easy reach. Hike mountains and valleys, see volcanic lumpy rainbow pigmentations at Seven Coloured Earth Geopark, have hair-raising adventures ziplining over gorges, barter at the historic Central Market in capital Port Louis, stand in the shadows of Hindu goddess Durga and Lord Shiva, each statue soaring 33m, and appreciate the country’s melting pot of cultural influences – French, African, Chinese and Indian – on a plate.

The East African nation’s coastal life is as enticing. Calm waters, golden sands and fringing reefs entice beachgoers to dive, snorkel, kayak and starfish. Before my apparent need for a pick-me-up rum, I had been on a boat all day, enjoying these dreamy seascapes. Days out on a catamaran island-hopping is big business in Grand Baie. Sailing is optimal from May to December when temperatures across the country are warm and dry. May’s daily highs of 27C were pleasant on my skin without me morphing into the island’s newest waterfall.

Numerous catamaran operators such as Coral Belle Catamaran Cruises offer full-day excursions

to Mauritius’s northern islands, Flat Island and IIot Gabriel. It takes about an hour to reach their untainted shores. The masses of tourists here are easily understandable: you can explore outer islands, savour a freshly cooked barbecue buffet and cool off with unlimited drinks, including beers, wines, local rum and soft drinks for about $A50. Bargain!

There’s a bounty of things to do within easy reach, including seeing volcanic lumpy rainbow pigmentations at Seven Coloured Earth Geopark.

Mauritius lives up to its tropical paradise reputation, with gin-clear waters skirting the islands and lush vegetation dominating each core. The water invites snorkelling, but with my previous day of exploration with diving, I opted to be a sloth on the sand.

Diving in Mauritius almost took it out of me. There are more than 200 dive sites, from shipwrecks, pristine coral beds to shark-frequented arenas. Grand Baie dive shop Panorama Divers offers two dive packages with boat and gear hire included from $A135. From here, it’s a short commute by boat to some of the country’s most illustrious dive spots, including Merville Patches.

The aquatic playground features five patches of coral, animated with abundant marine life 12m below. Intense, hangry-looking moray eels populate the area, peering out from their coral grottoes with their mouths wide open, either as a scare tactic or optimistic for an easy feed. Zany-patterned nudibranchs (a type of sea slug), leaf fish and elusive octopuses are also residents of the famed eel city, making it an exciting underwater exploration.

I went from scissor kicks to clutching jungle sticks, hiking in Mauritius. The island offers plenty of scenic trails, coastal and inland. Most trails throughout the island are unmarked, so trekking with a guide is strongly encouraged. Adventure tour operator Yanature offers half-day and full-day hikes around the island, including the country’s largest national park, Black River Gorges, 50km southwest of Grand Baie.

Detail from roof of Hindu Temple near Grande Baie.

The park’s beauty spot, Tamarind Falls, is one of the most popular hikes in the country, famed for its tiered falls and small pools surrounded by forest. Also known as Tamarin or Seven Cascades, the challenging trail requires Tarzan-style tree-grabbing and sidestepping under tropical undergrowth. Despite the name, 12 waterfalls feature within the section of the verdant valley. A full-day hike is required to view most falls; however, I completed the 5km half-day route. 

Either way, the trail rewards with a refreshing dip in the waterfall’s natural pools, the sight and sound of the valley’s constant shower stream paradisal.

And when it comes to unwinding, Mauritius is not short of plush resorts. A 20-minute drive from Grand Baie is The Oberoi Beach Resort, Mauritius. It’s easily apparent why the five-star luxe offering has won plaudits. The resort is located alongside the marine park, Turtle Bay, surrounded by subtropical gardens.

A 20-minute drive from Grand Baie is The Oberoi Beach Resort.

The resort’s pathways all leading to coastal pleasures: two pools, bars, restaurants, and accommodation. The Boat House offers a range of complimentary water sports, including glass-bottom boat rides, snorkelling, windsurfing and kayaking. Food experiences also make up the resort schedule with its Fire N Smoke evening at the hotel’s Herb Trail. The four-course meal under dark starry skies is a must for food lovers, with the fire pit meats and island crayfish bisque worth the splurge.

My gorgeous thatched-roof luxury pavilion was a perfect refuge with its subtle warm tones, high ceilings, large windows, and a four-poster king bed. Each night, hotel slippers are neatly positioned at the foot of my bed, pointed in the direction of the bathroom. I considered the subtle hint, dipping into the grandiose bathtub overlooking private tropical gardens.

I found it hard to leave the resort, but the morning views change all that. The pavilion doors open to a lounge on the terrace with vistas of the peaceful bay and those jagged ranges. These views make it irresistible to stay still on an island that offers so much – rum shots are the added sweetener.

The writer was a guest of Air Mauritius and the Mauritius Tourism Promotion Authority.

Originally published as Mauritius, the tiny island that's big on action