Every ski season, hordes of pent-up skiers head to Australia's big four: Perisher, Thredbo, Hotham and Falls. But with lift lines verging on half-hour waits and escalating parking problems, perhaps it's time to venture somewhere “new to you”. Melburnians may have discovered Mt Buller years ago, as it’s little more than three hours’ drive away, but for those of us further afield it largely remains off the radar - just the way many skiers like it. This season, however, it's time to blow the lid off Australia's most misunderstood ski resort.
Is Mt Buller Australia’s most misunderstood ski resort?
Mount Buller ski resort isn’t as small or as gentle as you may think.
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It’s easier to get to than you think
Thanks largely to its proximity to Melbourne, it’s quick and painless for interstate skiers to reach Mt Buller. Snow-loving Brisbanites, for example, can fly to Melbourne, and then jump on an airport shuttle and be delivered at their snow-laden lodge door within seven hours (give or take). You don’t have to be part of a package bus tour either, booking with Mt Buller Ski Express or BullerBus. That will also save you dollars spent on fuel and snow chains (compulsory in Victoria), and the hassle of driving in icy conditions.
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The terrain is mostly intermediate
The popular Bourke Street run that connects Mt Buller village to the rest of the mountain gives people the impression that the resort primarily caters to beginner skiers and snowboarders, but that’s far from the truth. Less than 20 percent of Buller terrain is graded green, with the majority catering to intermediates. The resort also has three terrain parks, a Rider Cross Course, fun off-piste side-country that is easily accessible, and picturesque cross-country ski trails that link to Mt Stirling.
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It’s bigger than you realise
The layout of the resort belies how big it is. Buller has 19 lifts, the most lifts in Victoria. When it comes to staying on snow, it’s has the most ski resort beds in the state. For a high-end stay, check out Breathtaker Hotel and Spa, where there are private hydrotherapy “geisha tubs” and a members’-only Loft Bar. There is also the iconic Mt Buller Chalet Hotel, where the rooms were recently upgraded, and plenty of self-catering lodges that are great for young families.
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It’s not always busy
Staggering lift lines at one interstate resort sometimes gives weekend warriors the impression that all Aussie resorts face the same lengthy queues, but that’s not the case. Mt Buller’s Bourke Street may experience the odd traffic jam but as soon as you’re away from the main run, you’ll fair much better. Midweek is the best time to visit because not only will you get on a lift quicker, you’ll secure a restaurant table sooner, and experience more of a locals’ vibe - and who doesn’t love feeling like a ski local? Lift passes and accommodation are also cheaper.
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The dining is good
Mt Buller bucks the trend when it comes to sloppy ski resort dining, with around 35 cafes, restaurants and bars to choose from. Opening this season is The Wood Room, a stylish ski-in restaurant with quality burgers, large salads, and plenty of space for kids who can’t sit still. Next door, is Woody’s Cafe, which is also new and a cosy spot to grab a quick coffee and decadent lamington. Elsewhere, the locals rave about the date slice at Koflers Hutte, while there’s a lot of buzz around the new Spurs Smokehouse menu, where brisket and pulled pork warms bellies. If you need a night or two in, pop into Buller Grocer, where you’ll find a surprisingly well-stocked and reasonably priced selection of pasta, salads and soups.
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There’s more than skiing
Some ski resorts are all about the downhill, and I get the appeal of those places, but there’s a lot to be said for having off-snow options for bad weather days or chill afternoons. Buller is home to Australia’s highest movie theatre, as well as Buller Air Zone, where big and little kids can tackle an inflatable obstacle course, practise their back flips on multiple trampolines and go indoor rock-climbing. Buller also has two tobogganing areas and Northside Express chairlift, which sightseers can catch to Spurs Smokehouse to see the mountain beyond the village and join skiing friends for lunch.
The writer travelled as a guest of Mt Buller.