I’d never bothered going to Queenstown, then I found the perfect cruise

It may be best known as New Zealand’s adrenaline capital, but this traveller discovered Queenstown offers an adventure to suit even non-thrillseekers.

Freefalling from bridges and hurtling atop whitewash waters – whisper the name “Queenstown” to me and my mind collects these stomach-churning images as I cement my long-held belief that New Zealand’s adrenaline hub probably isn’t for me.

Then an email about the TSS Earnslaw, a 1912 steamer that cruises glacier-fed Lake Wakatipu between the city’s Steamer Wharf and Walter Peak, lands in my inbox and what do you know? I’m Queenstown-bound for a scenic RealNZ journey within days.

Conditions are far from postcard-perfect when my 11-year-old daughter and I arrive at RealNZ’s visitor centre to board our four-hour Walter Peak Gourmet BBQ Dining cruise. Heavy fog has settled in across the city and a cold rain is coming in from every which way.

Despite arriving half an hour early, we realise we’ve underestimated the popularity of this 250-capacity cruise on the last remaining commercial passenger-carrying coal-fired steamship in the southern hemisphere – and the queue is already snaking its way around the building and down the street. Although all are heading to Walter Peak High Country Farm at the base of Walter Peak mountain, some are holding tickets for a Farm Tour or an Eco Tour, while others are clutching passes to go horse trekking.

The picturesque Lake Wakatipu offers stunning scenery.

Me? Since I’m always led by my stomach, the mix of experiences included within the Walter Peak Gourmet BBQ Dining package (a scenic 45-minute cruise each way, a barbecue buffet of local and homegrown produce at the Homestead Restaurant, and a farm-dog demonstration post-dessert) sounds perfect to me.

Boarding the TSS Earnslaw feels like a high-stakes version of nautical musical chairs: people are racing across the native kauri timber decks like crazed Supermarket Sweep contestants as they try to grab the best seats in the house. The upper Promenade, with its bar and café selling all manner of snacks, proves to be a hit but the main deck below is where you’d prefer to be if you’re into watching the stokers at work to keep the fires burning as we cruise along at 11 knots.

The historic TSS Earnslaw cruises Lake Wakatipu from Queenstown to Walter Peak.

The 11km journey complete with commentary may be 45 minutes, but it passes in the blink of an eye, and the chorus of oohs and aahs alerts us to our arrival at Walter Peak Country Farm, a scene which looks straight out of a fairytale, all lush lawns and bright pops of hybrid tea roses surrounded by alpine peaks. Although it was once one of New Zealand’s most-famous working farms, covering 170,000ha and running some 40,000 sheep, today the station is split in two: the Walter Peak High Country Farm, a 155ha property focused on tourism, and the working farm which still runs 20,000 Merino sheep as well as some Angus cattle.

Lunch is the first order of the day and what a meal it is. I’m seated by the window overlooking the lake, with mountains of beef, lamb, pork and chicken laid out for the taking, while salad, vegetable, cheese and dessert stations are just as busy as guests keep depleting and refilling their plates.

Buffet offering on RealNZ's Walter Peak Gourmet BBQ Dining cruise.

The best way to emerge from a food coma? With a dog show courtesy of our guide, Corey, and his cheeky border collie, Echo, who leads us over to the demonstration area and shows us how he effortlessly rounds up the somewhat terrified-looking sheep.

There’s time to stop in a gift shop, of course, and before we know it, we’re back on the Earnslaw for the return trip to Steamer Wharf. This time the fog has lifted and, wow, it seems Queenstown really is for everyone.

The writer travelled as a guest of RealNZ. 

A farm dog demonstration on RealNZ's Walter Peak Gourmet BBQ Dining cruise.

When to do a Queenstown food cruise

The Walter Peak Gourmet BBQ Dining tour is priced from $NZ149 (about $135) per person, with the option to cruise during summer months on the TSS Earnslaw or year-round on the Spirit of Queenstown catamaran. 

How to get to Queenstown, New Zealand from Australia

Air New Zealand has daily flights to Queenstown from Sydney and Melbourne. 

Where to stay in Queenstown

Located in the Five Mile retail precinct (and right by the airport), Sudima Queenstown Five Mile offers a range of Superior and Alpine View rooms, in both king and twin-share configurations. 

Originally published as I’d never bothered going to Queenstown, then I found the perfect cruise