I walked the Kiso Road on the Nakasendo Way, Japan's best walking trail

This legendary route has become the star of country’s walking holiday scene, combining history with breathtaking natural beauty.

At first I think they’re autumn leaves. 

But the small yellow and white shapes dotted through the road are stones, and our guide, Kaori Irwin, explains that they show we’re on the Nakasendo Way. 

And I have to take a beat to take it in. Here I am, following in the footsteps of samurai, princesses and pilgrims on an ancient road as I combine two travel things I love – walking and Japan.

This historic trail has become the star of the Japan walking holiday scene and while I am only doing a section, here’s what we got to experience on our small-group Walk Japan trip.

Along the way we walk through postcard-perfect villages. Picture: Supplied.

The Kiso Road route

The Nakasendo Way dates back to the seventh century and became a particularly important route during the Edo Period (1503-1868) when it connected Edo (now Tokyo) to Kyoto. The Kiso Road is roughly halfway along the route and is considered the most spectacular section of the journey. Our five-day itinerary starts at Nagoya Station where we catch the train to Ena for a museum visit before dinner. Days two to four are for hiking and day five is a morning at Matsumoto Castle before we say goodbye.

Along the way we walk through postcard-perfect villages, visit museums, shrines and temples, hike past waterfalls and through forests and learn about those who came before us, including Emperor Meiji who took the road in 1880, leaving a number of never-to-be-used-again doors and toilets in his wake.

At the “Nakasendo lucky point”, 777m above sea level, I ring a bell in the “power spot of happiness!!” that doubles as a bear bell. Yes, black bears are about, even if we don’t spot one. Dosojin, the Shinto guardian deities that were put in place to keep evil away from travellers, watch as we go past. And as we walk over the Torii Pass, one of the Nakasendo’s highest points, we’re lucky to see sacred Mount Ontake.

“We don’t see it often. It’s a very shy mountain.” Kaori says.

It’s easy to forget the pain when you’re surrounded by so much beauty. Picture: Amanda Woods.

Fitness requirements

Walk Japan trips have six activity levels and the Kiso Road sits in the middle on level three. Our walking days range between 10km and 12km, and I’m not the only one in the group who could skip that if it was flat, but feels it on the hills. As this walk explores part of Japan’s Central Alps it’s no surprise there are lots of steep inclines, with elevation gains each day ranging from 371 to 461m.

My calves may hurt at times but my spirit is soaring and it’s easy to forget the pain when you’re surrounded by so much beauty. The average age of Walk Japan’s Kiso Road guests is 59, and the oldest person to do it was 86 – suddenly I have a new goal for my 80s.

Walking poles to tackle those hills and onsen soaks definitely help, and it’s acceptable to grab a taxi or train if it gets too much.

We try our hand at local food traditions, such as cooking on huge heat-resistant magnolia leaves. Picture: Amanda Woods.

The food

“Have you heard about Walk Japan’s nickname?” Kaori asks us before our first meal. “It’s Eat Japan!” It’s soon easy to see why.

Traditional multi-course meals are a highlight, including at the Ryokan Ichikawa where chestnut and sesame tofu, homemade pickles, sashimi, and local Hida beef shabu shabu that we cook in our individual hot pots are among the 11 plates of our first dinner.

We try our hand at local food traditions, such as cooking on the huge heat-resistant magnolia leaves that crunch under our feet on the walk. We’re instant fans of the Kiso-style soba noodles with a strong soy, dashi flavour broth, and love tasting seasonal treats that can only be found in the Kiso Valley, including persimmonkurikintonmade with candied chestnuts and astringent Ichida persimmons that hang like decorations as they dry.

I learn Nagano is the largest producer of merlot in Japan as I enjoy the local reds. And that cocktail of Nanawarai Saké Brewery saké and plum vinegar at our Onyado Tsutaya ryokan in Kiso? More, please.

Reiko Ichikawa and her daughter Sachiko welcome us to their ryokan. Picture: Amanda Woods.

The ways we stayed

“I am a 15th-generation inn keeper,” Reiko Ichikawa tells us as she welcomes us to her ryokan.

“And I’m a 16th-generation inn keeper,” her daughter Sachiko says, smiling as we applaud. Here at the Ryokan Ichikawa in Ena they have been welcoming Nakasendo Way walkers since 1624 and as I snuggle on my futon bed under a warm soft cloud of a kakefuton (doona) I wonder who has done the same in this room in the 400 years before.

Our Walk Japan tour is a chance to experience authentic Japanese inns and for the first three nights we sleep in washitsu, traditional Japanese-style rooms with tatami mats and sliding doors. At the Ryokan Ichikawa we share bathrooms but every other night we have private ensuites. Bathing options range from large shared hot baths to a huge indoor and outdoor onsen with a steaming waterfall.

When Kaori says “welcome back to the 21st century” as we arrive in Matsumoto I’m not ready to say goodbye to ryokan life. As I take off my hiking boots in our final hotel with its familiar, raised bed, I tell them not to worry. This is just the start of their adventures in Japan.

Walk Japan’s five-day Nakasendo Way: The Kiso Road walk costs 256,000 yen a person twin share. Picture: Supplied.

How to get to Nagoya from Australia

Japan Airlines flies daily from Sydney to Nagoya via Tokyo Haneda, and three times a week from Melbourne.

How much does Walk Japan’s five-day Nakasendo Way: The Kiso Road walk costs?

Walk Japan’s five-day Nakasendo Way: The Kiso Road walk costs 256,000 yen (about $2642) a person twin share, and includes all meals, luggage transfers, entrance fees and travel from tour start to finish. Maximum group size is 12 guests.

The author was a guest of Walk Japan.

Originally published as I walked the Kiso Road on the Nakasendo Way, Japan's best walking trail