How to spend 48 hours in Istanbul

Work quickly and you can see many of this gargantuan city’s highlights, insists this quasi-local.

Short on Istanbul? We got you.

When you’re a Turkish Australian travel writer, there are a few questions that pop up time and again. Can I help you buy a rug? Sure, you get started by reading this guide I’ve written for Escape previously. Do you recommend buying food from street vendors and if so, which ones? Absolutely, but only ever from stalls heaving with a long line of locals. 

Above and beyond the question I get asked most, however, is: “I’ve got 24/36/48 hours in Istanbul - how can I make the most of it?

Obviously, that’s a tall order; not only is Istanbul one of the largest cities on Earth, with some 16 million residents it’s also one of the most populous, making getting around swiftly a challenge for first-timers. Indeed, you could stay for a week and still not see half of the city’s attractions. The good news? Provided you’ve got oodles of energy and the patience of a saint, you can see many of Istanbul’s heavy hitters which are conveniently grouped around the Sultanahmet and Beyoğlu regions. If you’ve only got 24 hours, just aim to do Day One of the following itinerary. 

The harem of the sultans in Topkapi Palace.

DAY ONE

An early morning walk across Galata Bridge is the perfect way to prepare for the chaos of the Grand Bazaar. Be there for 9am when the market is at its most quiet, and be sure to map out the section or sections you’d like to check out in advance (you’re never going to be able to see it all, so it’s best to start with whatever you’re particularly interested in, be it jewellery, leather or rugs). The Spice Market next door, though tempting, will have to wait for your next visit.

Take the tram to Topkapı Palace, where you will produce your skip-the-line ticket, saving you a long wait. Again, you cannot expect to see it all; you will need to decide which sections are of most interest to you before your visit. Give yourself two hours and depending on how you’re going for time, enjoy tea with a view at Gülhane Park.

See the light at The Grand Bazaar.

Take the tram back to Sultanahmet and pop into Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi, which has been serving Turkish meatballs (köfte) since 1920, for a late lunch, then pop by the serene underwater world of Basilica Cistern, tacking on Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia in the early evening when most of the tourists clear off (the former closes at 630pm, while the latter is open until 730pm, although both are off-limits during prayer times so be sure to Google those beforehand)

You’ll be exhausted but what better place to slump over your table than at Seven Hills Restaurant, which has a terrace overlooking the twinkling lights of the Old City (and the mosques)?

The Basilica Cistern is one of Istanbul's subterranean wonders.

DAY TWO

It’s an 8am start in what is arguably the best breakfast house in Istanbul, Van Kahvaltı Evi. Order the serpme breakfast, which is an array of dishes ranging from eggs and cheeses to various spreads and olives. Top tip? Don’t miss a side order of piși (fried bread). Next, take a cab to Dolmabahçe Palace, an opulent symbol of the Ottoman Empire. Again, you’ll need to secure fast-track entry tickets well in advance, then give yourself an hour or two to take in those intricate halls (46 of them!)

Dolmabahce Palace on the banks of the Bosphorus in Istanbul.

Hop another cab down to the waterside suburb of Ortaköy nearby, where you can board a vessel and enjoy an hour-long Bosphorus cruise for less than ten bucks. It’s an excellent way to get a feel for the city and check out many of Istanbul’s landmarks from the water, while you enjoy a couple of glasses of tea (note: this is drunk black; please do not ask for milk). There’s no doubt you’ll be hungry once you disembark, but happily, there are plenty of food stands grouped around the jetty. I always go for the gözleme, followed by the lokma (fried balls of dough drowned in syrup).

View Istanbul in a new light from the river.

After a quick cab ride back to Taksim Square, it’s time to walk off those carbs as you take in the atmosphere (and stores) of Istiklal Caddesi, a celebrated - and pedestrianised - shopping strip. Walk down the strip down to Galata where you may climb Galata Tower, and then head a few streets over to Kılıç Ali Pașa Hamamı for a traditional Turkish bath in what is one of the most historic hamams in Istanbul. You won’t have time for a massage, but the bathing ritual will be more than enough.

You’ll emerge looking like a drowned rat, but who cares when you have a reservation at Mikla to look forward to? Insist on being seated on the terrace but even if your seating plan doesn’t pan out, never fear: the food at this Michelin restaurant tastes just as good indoors, and you can always get a late-night cocktail at 360 Istanbul later on. Now order a rakı (the national drink) and pat yourself on the back for a job well done. You can always sleep tomorrow. 

Originally published as How to spend 48 hours in Istanbul